I write about perfumes. I am a collector of olfactory impressions. Sometimes I fall head over heels in love with a perfume. As I did with Dangerous Rose. Unexpectedly, utterly and irrevocably. With an insatiable hunger for it.
To start with, I was just as selfconfident that it will not affect me so strongly when I first approached it.
An introduction was made, perhaps that is why I felt so selfconfident. Two introductions, to be exact.
The first one happened at the Esxence – The Scent of Excellence exibition in Milan, where I attended Olibere Perfumes presentation of the new collection, resulting from the cooperation between Founder Marjorie Olibere and star perfumer Luca Maffei of Atelier Fragranze Milano.
These fine perfumes are inspired by movies Marjorie watched when growing up: Dangerous Rose perfume is inspired by the movie „Dracula“. Vampire movies of our youth. My favorite is “Interview With A Vampire”!
Movies, memories, atmosphere, characters, plots…and fragrances.
There are three new Extraits de Parfum joining Savannah’s Heart: Chemical Love, Leather Attraction and Dangerous Rose.
„OLIBERE is a fragrance atelier that makes for the first time the unique connection between the magic of cinema & poetry of fragrances. Each fragrance comes with its original short movie. Founder Marjorie Olibere makes sure that each fragrance and movie powerfully convey emotions.“
I had the pleasure of hearing Marjorie Olibere present the new collection together with Luca Maffei, showing us raw materials he used!
The second introduction, much closer to skin, was made when I came home, watched some vampire movies again, tested and wore the perfume over and over again. I became selfish, keeping it for myself. So much that I refused to write about it until now, still sniffing my wrist like an addict.
I thought at first: a Chypre! To be honest, this is what some Chypre perfumes do to me. Now, those who are familiar with perfume families might as well skip this paragraph but in order not to flaunt around “big ‘fume” words for those who are not, let’s start with this brief explanation:
„Chypre“ is mostly acknowledged as the most sophisticated of fragrance families. The name comes from Cyprus (French) – the island, not the cypress tree. There are opinions that Chypre (sheep:raa) date back to Roman times: this island is considered the birthplace of Aphrodite, the goddess of love. These fragrances are usually built around a woody/mossy accord – with bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli and labandum and elements of flowers, fruits or wood are also present, dividing this family into two groups: Chypre Floral and Chypre Fruity, and furthermore Woody Chyphre, Fresh Cyphre, Green Cyphre and Cyphre Leather. Francois Coty launched in 1917. his simply named „Cyphre“ perfume, Guerlain did it with Cyphre de Paris, also simply named Cyphre.
I am very fond of the Cyphre family: to me these perfumes bring a very feminine and sophisticated feeling, complex and rare and ah! so very Parissienne! The mood. The atmosphere. Luxury. High heels, perfect make up, shiny hair and heavenly scented body. They are a fine dress, a glass of champagne, red lipstick, soft lights, Mona Lisa smiles, refined seduction, elegant sex appeal and sparkling intelect…
Call it a Cyphre, a woody-floral-musk, a nouveau cyphre: this Dangerous Rose is a Dangerous Rose is a Dangerous Rose…by whatever family name you call it!
What is the connection between movies about vampires and this finely crafted Cyphre perfume? The atmosphere! Haunting. I remember watching vampire movies breathlessly, movies about love, seduction, betrayal, loneliness, and hunger for life.
These movies whisper and scream about addiction, the pain of separation, the fading of feelings, the promise of immortality. Haunting, sexy, funny and hypnotic.
The perfume? Both gourmand and carnal, it opens up inviting, seducing you in an almost innocent offering of fresh bergamot, edible spices and fruitiness – only to transform into dark rose absolute enhanced with oud. Gothic splendour, leaving you totally bewitched with the elegant darkness of its sensuality.
There is also the fact that in 16th/17th century Europe oakmoss was a very popular scent, used with orris and rose petals to perfume the wigs! Vampires in movies? They are not just creatures of the dark: they are emotional, contemplative, hedonistic, confident and frail in their immortality. Highly seductive.
„In the spring of 1988. I returned to New Orleans and as soon as I smelled the air I knew I was home. It was rich, almost sweet, like the scent of jasmine and roses around our old courtyard. I walked the streets, savouring that long lost perfume“
I really would like you to feel the atmosphere I keep talking about because in my opinion it is crucial in describing this perfume:
„Mortal beauty often makes me ache and mortal grandeur can fill me with that longing…but Paris, Paris drew me close to her heart, so I forgot myself entirely. Forgot the damned and questioning preternatural thing that doted on mortal skin and mortal clothing. Paris overwhelmed and lightened and rewarded more richly than any promise“
Dangerous Rose starts out sweet, singing its notes softly, almost like when you listen to choral chanting. A fruity intro with sprinkle of spices lures you to come closer, to lower your shields and forget your defenses. Very tempting and irresistable. As you become relaxed with this song-of-a-siren top notes nectar conjuction, the dark red, opulent, rose in full bloom rose enters like a queen. A tricky rose it is too, playing with your senses: it moves in majestically but it also hides in so many shadows of oud and civet, not taking over but rather making a perfect setting so that this rose can be appreciated in all its might. Imagine this rose, as I did, closing my eyes: a rose observed by night. Dark, deep red tones with black shadows in deep folds of thick petals, soft and velvety but also very full-bodied petals, almost edible in their opulence. When you fully surrender to it, it leaves a deep impression of muskiness that lingers on, like a silky bed for all those wonderful rose petals! Dangerous Rose seems to last forever in its almost eerie beauty…
„As if the night said to me: „You are the night and the night alone understands you and unfolds you in its arms.“ One with the shadows. Without a nightmare. An inexplicable peace“ (Anne Rice)
I hope you will enjoy this fine perfume as much as I did!
Top notes: Bergamot, Passion Fruit, Nutmeg, Pink Pepper, Cardamom
Middle notes: Rose Absolute, Pyrogenated Styrax, Oud
Base notes: Patchouli, Benzoin, Labdanum, Civette, Oakmoss, Musk
The Plum Girl
Quotes: Anne Rice, “The Vampire Chronicles”