Archive

September 2016

Browsing

img_0016

Just last Sunday my father handed me a few plums, freshly picked from a tree in his garden. Hot and ripe.

That luscious, sweet, fruity smell transported me within a second in a late September day when I impatiently unwrapped my birthday present. It was 1986. I held in my hands my very own, very first, very grown-up perfume. I was dreaming about it since I first saw the bottle (never had a chance to smell a tester or really try it on, it was a wild desire based on an advertising photo). Nothing I have ever smelled felt a scent like that, and all the girly, fresh, light and youth tainted perfumes I was familiar with were simply bombed away with this one.

It was Poison by Christian Dior.

It is hard to believe that it was launched twenty-six years ago and that now the fragrance of the original Poison is referred to as „vintage“. You may love it, you may hate it, you may even stop reading my text at the first sight of its name, but you have to admit that it was revolutionary.

The package. Poisonous green. The bottle: apple-shaped, the color of dark plum, perfectly fitting the palm of my hand. Once you unleash the beast, the first breath is strong and unexpected. Plum and coriander, anise and rosewood rise with a Goth queen attitude. Then its exotic alchemy evolves in magnificent tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily of the valley and carnation in narcotic and deadly symphonies. Base notes finish you off as you feel them forever in tones of musk, sandalwood, and Cedarwood. There is so much going on, it seduces you, unarms and transforms you in a malevolent way, it draws you in like a forbidden pleasure. You most certainly will never forget it. Like I never forgot the next morning when I immersed myself in this scent, making almost all the passengers on the tram feel nauseous. Spritz and walkthrough, and walk fast, is the only method I find acceptable for Poison, and that formula in the eighties had a sillage that could survive WWIII.

It was bold, it was courageous, it was outrageous – and it made me feel like a full-blooded woman. I don’t think it deserved its bad reputation. Maybe people just didn’t understand this magnificent perfume. Maybe women put too much of it. Maybe they were scared of unleashing dark, Goth, primal sexuality that it stirs – I know I was, and now I know I was just too young to fully appreciate such a masterpiece.

Poison was created by Jean Guichard, parfumeur and director of the famous Givaudan School. He also created La Nuit de Paco Rabanne, Obsession, Eden et Loulou de Cacharel, So Pretty de Cartier, Parfum de Peau de Montana and many more. Born in Grasse, coming from a family also in the perfume business, owner of his own jasmine and « Roses de Mai » fields, now he educates new generations of perfumers.

What you may not know, the creation of Poison – involves an error in the making. As I read in an interview he gave in Persolais blog, Jean Guichard worked on the project Poison closely with Maurice Roger who managed Dior at the time. He took this project very seriously and the choice of perfume was too important to him to delegate it to someone else. Yes, Dior had stagnation in sales, perfumes on the market were beginning to smell so boring and yes, Roger needed something completely new. Guichard worked during the week, sending little vials over to Roger on Fridays. He would smell them during the weekend and call back on Mondays, giving feedback so that the formula could be changed again. On one Friday the lab technician got two samples ready and sent them over to Roger. When Guichard smelled them, they were not the perfume he made! It smelled very fruity, very synthetic, horrible! When he went back to the office on Monday, the management was crazy. He had to call Roger and explain to him that a terrible mistake has been made. The perfume was corrected, it smelt very nice and acceptable, and was sent over again.

Maurice Roger called Guichard some days later, saying that the new sample is not good. But the old sample, the one that they apologized for sending, had something absolutely fantastic in it. They didn’t even know what happened in the lab, but soon found out that it was the mistake of the lab technician. At that time there was some synthetic damascone in Poison. The perfumer working on the trials was Edouard Flechier and he used 1% concentration on all trials, but the lab technician added a 100% concentration! Furthermore, Guichard says that it was not he who made Poison, but Maurice Roger because he chose that specific trial to be worked on. He just perfected the perfume, and it became a hallmark of an era. Dior’s sale rocketed. The rest is history

Dior, like many other key fashion houses, has expanded into a niche market. Their Collection Privée was launched in 2010, and when discussing sourcing perfume materials, their UK Fragrance Ambassador Carl Groenewald, states it’s “the same way we do the fabrics for Haute Couture gowns.” Speaking of the clients for these fragrances, Groenewald declares they “do not want a commercial fragrance and to smell like everyone else.”

The Plum Girl

Elena Cvjetkovic

Photos: Dior, The Plum Girl


“There is nothing like the smell of books, both new and old. If someone ever bottled the smell, I would be all over it.”

Well, someone did. Not only bottled it as perfume, but there are also candles and home sprays as well.
I’ve heard people say: “I just can’t read electronic books. I miss the smell, the paper under my fingertips, the soft sound of pages turning…” Can we do something to change that experience? Reading electronic books does not mean we have to give up on one of the most wonderful scents in the world – the book smell.

There are many home and beauty products out that evoke the book smell: book scented candles, book scented perfumes and home sprays, with a combination of woody notes with a tang of acids and a hint of vanilla or leather over an underlying mustiness…and more. The range is fascinating: from the inky scent of new books to the leathery tone of old libraries or a touch of mildew mixed with a trace of jasmine in mothballs and wet paper antique smell.

What if I told you that we can recreate not only your favorite book but also the characters and events described? Yes, we can do just that!
Just close your eyes and think about fragrances that stir from your memory when you think about that special book: we’ll find the match…

Ladies, if you wish to get that scent all over you, try CB Hate Perfume – “In The Library”, for example.

Notes: woody, a hint of leather

Created by: Christopher Brosius

If you would like to recreate that sweet smell of a library, a specific book or atmosphere at your home or office (or a book store, for that matter) – contact me. Just as you have carefully designed visual elements of your home or a workplace, tactile and musical ambiance, do not miss to create an olfactory experience you will enjoy and be remembered by.

The Plum Girl

Elena Cvjetkovic

Photo: Johanna Goodyear @Dreamstime

 

Fig is a fruit without a visible flower, a symbol of blessing and prosperity in the ancient world, a symbol of sexuality and modesty in the Renaissance, and a lovely perfume ingredient today. 
My practical friends praise their home-made fig jams, yet Plato was more interested in their mental-stirring qualities, claiming that figs stimulate intelligence. I am blessed with a big fig tree in my summer cottage back yard – the smell and the taste of freshly picked figs served on a terrace overlooking the sea is my beloved summer morning ritual and olfactory thrill.
Now that Autumn is nearing, fig scents can offer a welcome reminder of summertime sensuality. Did you notice that the whole fruit resembles male genitalia, but when cut in half-female ones?
The best fig-centered fragrances balance the warmer and cooler tonalities and recreate just that ambient I describe, of cool green shade on a hot summer day, underneath a luscious fig tree, pine scent mixing with salty sea air, while cicadas are loudly singing.
Miss that sensual feeling of a late August night? Find your favorite fig scented perfume!

Fig Perfumes: Womanity Thierry Mugler, Figue Molinard, Marc Jacobs Splash Fig, Nude Coconut Fig Victoria`s Secret, Pierre Cardin pour Homme l’Intense, Eau Soleil Biotherm, Crystal Noir Versace, Aromadisiac for Him Avon, Jacadi Fille Jacadi, Velvet Vetiver Dolce&Gabanna, Italian Summer Fig The Body Shop, Armani Prive Figuier Eden Giorgio Armani, Womanity Eau pour Elles Thierry Mugler, Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler, Eau Parfumee au The Rouge Bvlgari, Figuier & Osmanthus L`Occitane en Provence, The Taste of Fragrance Womanity Thierry Mugler, Rare Sapphires Avon, Enchant Marks, and Spencer, Le Parfum Resort Collection Elie Saab, Agua Verde Salvador Dali, Good Life Davidoff…and many more.

The Plum Girl

Elena Cvjetkovic

Photo: The Plum Girl archive – figs served for breakfast, August 2016.