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Sheiduna. Sheitan’s bride? A she-dune? Seduction? Is that how they named you, I asked the perfume. Why?

It is all of this and more, yet with utmost elegance.

Here it was, right under my nose, the new perfume Sheiduna by Puredistance – Master Perfumes. An intriguing one, packed in an elegant bottle, smooth and heavy in my hand, with wow-baam! perfume percentage – where will it take me, I wondered. The niche house of Puredistance always seemed promising to me (feel free to click and learn more).

Press materials provided by Puredistance describe this novelty (created by CécileZarokian, ISIPCA graduate, she was trained for four years in Robertet, at first in Grasse, then in Paris. She was still a trainee when she created her first fragrance, Amouage Epic Woman. The name is invented by Jan Ewoud Vos, Puredistance founder), like this:

SHEIDUNA is a rich and intense Perfume inspired by the panoramic views and feel of golden sand dunes in the desert during sunset – soft, female curves changing from deep gold to warm, orangey-red – embodying a promise of sensual comfort and silent seduction. Wearing SHEIDUNA, one waft’s sensuality and intense color waves of Persian rugs touch the senses. The perfect marriage between Sensuality and Style.

Ingredients: lemon, tangerine, blackcurrant, aldehydes, Bulgarian rose essence, geranium, clove, vetyver, patchouly, amber woody, incense, benzoin, myrrh, tonka bean, vanilla pods, and musks.”

There you are, ingredients and all: yet, beware. This perfume doesn’t have the classical pyramid structure, nor will you be able to sum it up at once. You might love it or hate it, or hate it at first and then realize a couple of hours later that you want it as your signature perfume. It’s tricky, it’s strong and it’s pricey.

You’ve got to meet her in silence. She might seem orientally mystic but cold and distant, yet you can sense there is so much more under that self-contained first impression. When I took the second breath images and scents swirled around my head, extracting bits and pieces connected to my olfactory memories…desert! I wondered which one was it…was it Israel? No. Sahara? Not this time, but close enough. Suddenly I was again in the dusty bus, on my way to the Valley of Kings, taking a right turn, passing the path made of ancient stones and climbing the stairs of the magnificent temple of Hatshepsut.

My first impression of Sheiduna was oops, there we go powerful oriental again. Nah. But then came tangerines (I must have summoned them in the previous post “Tangerine Trees and Marmelade Skies) and lemon, gently unveiling Bulgarian rose. Subtle, seductive rose. It lasts and it lasts, leaving me with soft amber, near skin seductive fragrance. Soft as desert sands in the late afternoon, where all the scents of this world are gone and you can actually smell the sunbathed sand, the rocks, the sky, the Sun, your own skin and wind. I don’t know why but I thought this is how she might have smelled, the woman who became the King.

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The story about Hatshepsut is fascinating. What is also fascinating is that the ancient Egyptians were adept at chemistry, their formulas are the basis for the production of modern perfumes and cosmetics. Experts from L’Oreal and the Center for Research of the Museums of France tested materials from ancient perfume bottles and jars kept in Louvre: the percentages of ingredients used are roughly the same used in eye makeup today. And perfumes? They were masters of the art.

Born in the 15th century BC, Hatshepsut, daughter of Tuthmose I and Aahmes, was the favorite of their three children. When her two brothers died, she was in a unique position to gain the throne upon the death of her father. To have a female pharaoh was unprecedented, and probably most definitely unheard of as well. She did not become a queen. She was crowned the King of all Egypt, pharaoh, wore male clothes and a beard and accomplished what no woman had before her. She ruled the most powerful, advanced civilization in the world for twenty years. Bringing peace and prosperity, trading with, among other things – myrrh…which you can find in this perfume. When she died, her successors tried to eradicate every trace of her, including the most sacred form of her very presence on this world and the one to come – her name carved into stones of temples, amid names of other pharaohs. Her temple stands up to this day, she looks upon you as you enter it, and she lives. Her name is not forgotten.

I can imagine her watching down those stairs of Djeser-Djeseru, wearing her perfume scented robes, waiting for the sun to set behind the orange-colored horizon. Eager to retreat to her chambers, to be – just a woman. A seductive, noble and classy queen, sophisticated and elegant – hot and cold, sensual and down to earth – you might love her or hate her but she rules her world. Thanks, Sheiduna. Where will it take you?

The Plum Girl

Photo: The Plum Girl
Testing Location: Parfumerija Lana
Disclaimer

What a difference a small fruit made!

Yesterday, on a rainy Autumn Saturday, I went briefly to the nearest open market, desperately in need of Vitamin C. The past week was hectic, and while I tremendously enjoy workout and dancing, the last training I had with lengthy series of side abs obliques workout left me feeling my each and every rib, my whole rib cage sore with muscle pain.
As I walked in the market and lifted my umbrella, a sudden rush of orange color was all around me. It is the season of mandarins, fresh, bright orange, citrus’n’honey smelling, little balls of sunshine and sweetness! The benches in the open air market were filled with them, big heaps of mandarines, some still with leaves and branches, just picked, brightening up the day.
On my way home I peeled one and left the peels in the open bag: that sweet smell in the car already made me feel better. It took me away, bringing back an olfactory memory…

Morroco. Tangerines. Sahara.
Smells of kasbah, souks and lack of any scent at all, deep in the landscape of fine orange sands in Sahara. Some years ago I was on a trip to Morocco, from Casablanca to Marrakesh, from Fes to Chefchaouen: the ever-shifting landscape of Morocco provided plenty of distractions as we watched the scenery change from lush, palm-lined oases to surreal, barren stretches of otherworldly rock formations. There were ocher colored vast hills; verdant valleys with crystalline lakes, just planted young olive trees and snow-blanketed peaks of the impressive Atlas Mountains.
I also made stops at artisan workshops, buying rose and argan oils for which Morocco is famous.
I picked a fresh and ripe Tangerine from a tree on the outskirts of Medina, on my way to El-Attarine (perfume and spice) Souk in Marrakesh, its taste and smell forever to remind me of that exact location.

Mandarines, tangerines: pretty much alike, not the same. Moroccan Tangerines are somewhat larger, sweeter, the scent stronger and very present in the perfumes’ production. What I needed was a balm, and there was the Azena’s Green Tangerine sample waiting for me.

Why Azena? It is 100% natural. It is a family owned small business, run by the third generation heirs. They have a great story going back to the Grandpa who was famous for his Comfrey creams, herbs and healing teas. Now they feature Eco friendly packaging, continuing their tradition of 100% natural, handmade cosmetics. Azena Green Tangerine’s ingredients are tangerine oil and Marigold flowers essence. It also contains Comfrey root extract, renown for healing muscle pain and used for its medicinal benefits for over 2.000 years. It seemed that timing was right for me to try it out!

The (100ml) body balm is greenish yellow, mousse like but quite oily, best to use after showering on damp skin. It has tingling fresh effect, leaving your skin silky. Happy skin. The fragrance is green Tangerine skins at first very sparkly, uplifting and fresh. Then, as you rub it in, the warmth of skin turns it in earthy, rich, hay-like and musty Marigold hue.

My olfactory impression: short lasting but uplifting Tangerine scent, vision of a tangerine cut in slices for cocktails. Fades fast, fresh and greenish citrus vitamin C kick transforming into warmer hay and honey scent, which I find great since I am not a fan of Fanta-like orange-sticky sweet mandarine scent.
Where to buy: Azena, Origin – Croatian Cosmetics
Samples provided by: Origin – Croatian Cosmetics
Disclaimer

Tangerine Perfume Recommendations:

New! scent of Ben Gotham‘s Swedish perfume house Byredo, which has released its first-ever retailer exclusive, a unisex fragrance Belle de Tanger, exclusively sold at Neiman Marcus. I haven’t had a chance to sniff it yet but as soon as I do, will let you know precisely.
You may also like Tangerine – Demeter Fragrance, Agrumi da Sicilia – Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venice and Fraiche Badiane, Les Aromatiques (the nose behind this fragrance is Jean-Paul Millet Lage).

Mass Market suggestions: 6902 Hollywood Boulevard Los Angeles by Zara, Trendy by Avon 2015.

The Plum Girl

Photos: The Plum Girl, Azena web page.
“Tangerine Trees and Marmalade Skies” is a verse from “Lucy In The Sky a With Diamonds”.

It kind of surprised me, again. I do live in a moderate continental climate, four seasons and all, but still! Dusky, chilly mornings when you draw in a breath of the crispy smell of Autumn, the olfactory vision of wet ground, cinemonn colored leaves, rays of sunshine weaving through the clouds, earthy and woody scents soothing your nose: just recently I was reminiscent of Summer, clinging to fresh notes, desperately in need of “Vitamin Sea”. And here comes the rain again, falling on my head like memory, falling on my head like a new emotion…

Autumn poured over me, seducing me with its abundance of colors, harvested crops and fruits, spices and that damp smell of rain in the air just before it starts falling. It is rich, mysterious and textured, like a curve of a woman’s hip, soothing like that spot in the triangle shoulder-neck-collarbone of your lover.

If you are a signature perfume ’round the year type, good for you, but look around you: as the Nature changes it tones and hues, so do the scents change. The fragrant whiffs of flowers blooming, freshly cut grass, salty sea air or freshly cut slice of watermelon are now replaced by notes of wet leaves on the ground, earth smells like mushrooms, first smoke coming from chimneys, apples and pumpkins, grapes, woolen sweaters and leather booths: you might want to replace those light’n’breezy, fresh perfume notes with more cosy, earthy or, as Danish would say, hygge scents. Hygge, roughly translated as cosy, means creating a warm atmosphere and enjoying the good things in life with good people. Hygge for me is my Autumn perfume, my warm white blanket on the sofa, a book and a cup of Yellow tea.

I tend to associate spicy fragrances with Autumn, brunette vs. blonde, outdoors, but warm on the inside. Depending on your olfactory impression of this season and how it makes you feel, you might want to try out one of these:

Grain de Soleil by Fragonard: an Oriental fragrance, features iris, orange blossom, sandalwood, amber, patchouli, cinnamon, vanilla, jasmine, incense, heliotrope and rose. I do have a love and hate relation with jasmine, but this one is very comfortable yet sexy, relaxed sexy kind of a way. Later on it turns powdery vanilla, cuddly baby-like. I’d say a fine one for not a killer price.

M. Micallef Automne is a blend of red fruits, rare spices and woody notes. It opens with bergamot and red berries, cumin heart warmly beats with saffron and the base is patchouli, vanilla and sandalwood. The nose behind this fragrance is Jean-Claude Astier. Oldie but goodie, part of their 4Seasons series. It does start fruity and sweet, but then it transforms into almost Goth-like dark, sensual and fatal feminine. Smells like a close and a tight hug, when you feel your own body warmth, your partners body, and there’s no hurry, just simple pleasure of belonging.

CB I Hate Perfume Burning Leaves Absolute Perfume The name says it all. I rest my case. You can purchase trial vials at CB, which I strongly recommend. “Not everyone has your passion for dead leaves”, as Jane Austen wrote in Sense&Sensibility. The nose behind this fragrance is Christopher Brosius. I’d say it is controversial, you’ll eather love it or hate it, but it is certainly different.

Mainstream suggestions: Lancôme Poeme, CK Secret Obsession, YSL Cinema, Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka , Bois Des Iles by Chanel.  

So dig in your scents&emotions impression of October and pamper yourself with the matching perfume. Feel hygge and enjoy!

The Plum Girl

Photo: © Scvoart, Dreamstime

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Just last Sunday my father handed me a few plums, freshly picked from a tree in his garden. Hot and ripe.

That luscious, sweet, fruity smell transported me within a second in a late September day when I impatiently unwrapped my birthday present. It was 1986. I held in my hands my very own, very first, very grown-up perfume. I was dreaming about it since I first saw the bottle (never had a chance to smell a tester or really try it on, it was a wild desire based on an advertising photo). Nothing I have ever smelled felt a scent like that, and all the girly, fresh, light and youth tainted perfumes I was familiar with were simply bombed away with this one.

It was Poison by Christian Dior.

It is hard to believe that it was launched twenty-six years ago and that now the fragrance of the original Poison is referred to as „vintage“. You may love it, you may hate it, you may even stop reading my text at the first sight of its name, but you have to admit that it was revolutionary.

The package. Poisonous green. The bottle: apple-shaped, the color of dark plum, perfectly fitting the palm of my hand. Once you unleash the beast, the first breath is strong and unexpected. Plum and coriander, anise and rosewood rise with a Goth queen attitude. Then its exotic alchemy evolves in magnificent tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily of the valley and carnation in narcotic and deadly symphonies. Base notes finish you off as you feel them forever in tones of musk, sandalwood, and Cedarwood. There is so much going on, it seduces you, unarms and transforms you in a malevolent way, it draws you in like a forbidden pleasure. You most certainly will never forget it. Like I never forgot the next morning when I immersed myself in this scent, making almost all the passengers on the tram feel nauseous. Spritz and walkthrough, and walk fast, is the only method I find acceptable for Poison, and that formula in the eighties had a sillage that could survive WWIII.

It was bold, it was courageous, it was outrageous – and it made me feel like a full-blooded woman. I don’t think it deserved its bad reputation. Maybe people just didn’t understand this magnificent perfume. Maybe women put too much of it. Maybe they were scared of unleashing dark, Goth, primal sexuality that it stirs – I know I was, and now I know I was just too young to fully appreciate such a masterpiece.

Poison was created by Jean Guichard, parfumeur and director of the famous Givaudan School. He also created La Nuit de Paco Rabanne, Obsession, Eden et Loulou de Cacharel, So Pretty de Cartier, Parfum de Peau de Montana and many more. Born in Grasse, coming from a family also in the perfume business, owner of his own jasmine and « Roses de Mai » fields, now he educates new generations of perfumers.

What you may not know, the creation of Poison – involves an error in the making. As I read in an interview he gave in Persolais blog, Jean Guichard worked on the project Poison closely with Maurice Roger who managed Dior at the time. He took this project very seriously and the choice of perfume was too important to him to delegate it to someone else. Yes, Dior had stagnation in sales, perfumes on the market were beginning to smell so boring and yes, Roger needed something completely new. Guichard worked during the week, sending little vials over to Roger on Fridays. He would smell them during the weekend and call back on Mondays, giving feedback so that the formula could be changed again. On one Friday the lab technician got two samples ready and sent them over to Roger. When Guichard smelled them, they were not the perfume he made! It smelled very fruity, very synthetic, horrible! When he went back to the office on Monday, the management was crazy. He had to call Roger and explain to him that a terrible mistake has been made. The perfume was corrected, it smelt very nice and acceptable, and was sent over again.

Maurice Roger called Guichard some days later, saying that the new sample is not good. But the old sample, the one that they apologized for sending, had something absolutely fantastic in it. They didn’t even know what happened in the lab, but soon found out that it was the mistake of the lab technician. At that time there was some synthetic damascone in Poison. The perfumer working on the trials was Edouard Flechier and he used 1% concentration on all trials, but the lab technician added a 100% concentration! Furthermore, Guichard says that it was not he who made Poison, but Maurice Roger because he chose that specific trial to be worked on. He just perfected the perfume, and it became a hallmark of an era. Dior’s sale rocketed. The rest is history

Dior, like many other key fashion houses, has expanded into a niche market. Their Collection Privée was launched in 2010, and when discussing sourcing perfume materials, their UK Fragrance Ambassador Carl Groenewald, states it’s “the same way we do the fabrics for Haute Couture gowns.” Speaking of the clients for these fragrances, Groenewald declares they “do not want a commercial fragrance and to smell like everyone else.”

The Plum Girl

Elena Cvjetkovic

Photos: Dior, The Plum Girl


“There is nothing like the smell of books, both new and old. If someone ever bottled the smell, I would be all over it.”

Well, someone did. Not only bottled it as perfume, but there are also candles and home sprays as well.
I’ve heard people say: “I just can’t read electronic books. I miss the smell, the paper under my fingertips, the soft sound of pages turning…” Can we do something to change that experience? Reading electronic books does not mean we have to give up on one of the most wonderful scents in the world – the book smell.

There are many home and beauty products out that evoke the book smell: book scented candles, book scented perfumes and home sprays, with a combination of woody notes with a tang of acids and a hint of vanilla or leather over an underlying mustiness…and more. The range is fascinating: from the inky scent of new books to the leathery tone of old libraries or a touch of mildew mixed with a trace of jasmine in mothballs and wet paper antique smell.

What if I told you that we can recreate not only your favorite book but also the characters and events described? Yes, we can do just that!
Just close your eyes and think about fragrances that stir from your memory when you think about that special book: we’ll find the match…

Ladies, if you wish to get that scent all over you, try CB Hate Perfume – “In The Library”, for example.

Notes: woody, a hint of leather

Created by: Christopher Brosius

If you would like to recreate that sweet smell of a library, a specific book or atmosphere at your home or office (or a book store, for that matter) – contact me. Just as you have carefully designed visual elements of your home or a workplace, tactile and musical ambiance, do not miss to create an olfactory experience you will enjoy and be remembered by.

The Plum Girl

Elena Cvjetkovic

Photo: Johanna Goodyear @Dreamstime