One day at Esxence Milan 2023, five hours at the Fair! Here comes the second part of my report.
More perfumes, brands, exhibitions, and interesting events. Plus bonuses: unexpected meetings with brand owners and perfumers that shared their “secrets”!
While I’m still waiting for the official press release with numbers and stats, L’Equipe International has just posted that the 13th edition of Esxence Milan 2023 broke all the records: 300+ perfume brands were exhibiting, and more than 12.600 visitors attended the Fair in four days (Thursday and Friday are for professionals only, Saturday and Sunday are open for the general public).
So many brands, new perfume releases, and events! Some very special to me, in addition to my Esxence Milan 2023 Report Part I, so let’s move on along the busy, crowded, and heavily scented corridors:
SPECIALS
MEO FUSCIUNI
Sogni, a new fragrance by Meo Fusciuni was presented during Esxence Milan 2023, and their stand was simply beautiful. Perfume, art, and poetry meet again in this fragrant story set in a Japanese context – with pine needles in mist, the delicate scent of softwood, small bowls of rice, and just a breath of incense coming from somewhere far away. It’s touchingly delicate, dreamy, and unique.
I received the sample of Sogni before the Fair, and I will be reviewing it sometime soon – it’s a beauty. Again, because the lovely Encore du Temps (created by Giuseppe Imprezzabile) is the Art and Olfaction Awards finalist! So very special, poetical, and breathtaking!
I managed to hug Giuseppe and say hello, and I completely forgot to take photos, so this one I borrowed from the brand:
Meo Fusciuni stand at Esxence Milan 2023
FILIPPO SORCINELLI
Oh, Filippo! So special. Not only did he present a new fragrance in his delire de voyage collection – HAEC DIES, AND a new fragrance in the extrait de musique collection – Trompette 8, but he also played the organ at Chiesa di San Carlo al Lazzaretto, and opened a store container_zerouno in Via della Moscova 10 in Milan! Next time you’re in Milan, this is the address to go to!
Filippo Sorcinelli’s stand was one of the busiest at Esxence Milan 2023, but he and his team managed to kindly attend to everyone, as always. I did take these two samples with me, so you’ll hear from me more about them.
Haec Dies Presentation
EXHIBITIONS
L’OSMOTHEQUE – TRIBUTE TO ITALY, LAND OF PERFUMES
This wonderful exhibition took place at -1 level at Esxence Milan 2023, thanks to amazing and passionate people of L’Osmotheque, Roberto Drago (Co-Founder KAON), Marco Vidal, Ermano Picco, and Antonella Fontana – who found time to lead our small group through every exhibit.
I took my time to go through all the exhibited perfumes, chosen to scent the theme: Regale Unguentum (1st century, reconstructed according to writings of Pline the Elder), Acqua della Regina (1533 Santa Maria Novella), Reconstruction of the scent for gloves (1555 – inspired by the book published by Girolamo Ruscelli), Borotalcum (1878, Borotalco – talcum powder), Shocking (1937, Schiaparelli), Lavanda Fragrante (1940, Sigillo d’Oro), Pino Silvestre (1955, Vidal, reeconstructed by L’Osmotheque from the original formula), Diva (1983, Ungaro), Smalto (1987, Francesco Smalto), Dolce Vita (1994, Christian Dior), Acqua di Gio (1996, Armani), Light Blue (2001, Dolce&Gabanna), Iris Magnifica (2013, Luca Maffei), Sfumato (2019, La Grange du Parfumeur – inspired by the art technique used by Leonardo da Vinci / Mona Lisa), and a beauty you can find nowadays – Bergamoto Viaggo in Italia, by Laboratorio Olfattivo, created by Jean-Claude Ellena in 2021.
I always stand feeling so humbled and grateful at L’Osmotheque stand: so much passion, hard work, and genuine care for perfume as an art form! Most of these perfumes would be instant bestsellers even today, and many perfumes you can buy today are inspired by them.
Another thing that makes me utterly happy: I swear that L’Osmotheque carries one small bottle in their suitcase of precious ones on every Esxence just for me – my personal Unicorn, The One That Makes Me Cry. Iris Gris (1946, Vincent Roubert). The original formula. I take a blotter with me every time, and I pack it carefully, trying to preserve it as long as possible. Sometimes, usually, late at night, I carefully unpack this small treasure and take a sniff of what remains on the blotter. I got a new one, so I’m fine till the next Esxence!
OFF-ESXENCE MEETINGS
Esxence Milan 2023 also offered so many things “Off-Esxence”, as always. Parties, meetings with perfume brands owners and representatives visiting the Fair, and sneak-peaks of upcoming releases – provided by visiting perfumers.
I finally met with Marie-Pierre Blanchette, perfumer and owner of Miskeo Parfums, and managed to spend some time with her and Pep Dalessandri, evaluator for the brand. We were so engaged in conversation that I forgot to take any photos, but I did come back home with a sample of the new fragrance – Feuille! It’s a lovely, fresh fragrance, with a sunny and bright note of mimosa, surrounded by a bunch of bright green curly leaves.
Looking through my photos, I noticed that I did take a photo of Marie-Pierre, only with the other Elena – JC Ellena, lol. Here she is:
Marie-Pierre Blanhette meets JC Ellena
When I briefly wandered out of Esxence Milan 2023-Pavillion 16 to clear my nose a bit, I managed to finally meet and chat with Elisabeth Gaynes, founder, and CEO of strangelove ny! What a pleasant surprise! You might already know that I’m a great fan of silence the sea (link to my review), but I also haven’t had a chance to try deadofnight before this meeting (all created by Christophe Laudamiel)! I came back inside smelling even better and stronger than when I walked out, and carrying something that made me utterly happy.
Sultan Pasha came by to say hello, and I was happy to be able to give a hug to Angelos Balamis: two wonderful perfumers whose creations I appreciate so much! Keep your eyes on these two, some great fragrances are coming up!
Last but not the least, a meeting from which I had to run away to catch the Frecciarossa train to Venice and head home, I was very lucky to meet again, briefly, Victor Wong of Zoologist Perfumes!
I hope he’ll forgive me for having to run, but I’m very grateful that he did let me smell some of his upcoming releases.
No names are mentioned, because he asked not to, and these three are the ones that I remember the most: one created by SpyrosDrosopoulos, unusual, positively strange, and dedicated to an animal you might have never heard of, but I saw it live in its habitat. Then there was one by Tomoo Inaba (whom I managed to hug earlier in the day), and I guess you’ll find it to match the brief animal perfectly. And I smelled one created by Prin Lomros, and just uttered: what a beautiful weirdo!
As you might know, Victor does post and inform regularly on social media, and when he’s ready he’ll give you the names! Some very original and different animals are about to be added to the Zoologist crowd!
EVENTS AT ESXENCE 2023
MiCo Milan
Well, those I missed completely, sorry.
There were so many round tables, conferences, presentations, and announcements in the program of Esxence Milan 2023 – but you can easily find most of them recorded on the Esxence Milan 2023 YouTube channel, as I already did.
For example, I was looking forward to the round table Leading by a Nose – Perfumers speak out on education, diversity & creativity– you can watch the talk here.
The Art and Olfaction Awards finalists were also announced during the Esxence Milan 2023, on Friday! You can find listings of all the finalists here! Congratulations to all the finalists and winners in all categories will be announced at the 9th annual Art and Olfaction Awards ceremony on May 11, 2023.
I also missed all the great parties, including the fabulous one organized by Nishane, celebrating the 10th anniversary of the brand! I wish them all the best!
I hope you’ll enjoy reading my Part I and Part II Reports from Esxence Milano 2023! Keep checking this space because interviews with three fabulous perfumers are coming up soon.
I’ve already announced an exclusive interview with Jean-Claude Ellena, but there’s also one with perfumer Patrice Revillard, signing the new and beautiful L’Iris Fath EdP:
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2 Comments
Great overview and photos, Elena. I need to try those Meo Fuschiuni. They sound fantastic.
Thank you! Meo is very special…