2019 was marked by numerous releases of new fragrances, some quote that over 3000 new perfumes were launched. Waves of niche fragrances rolling in the market could be predicted as well: early Spring, late Spring/early Summer, late Autumn. Some even in late December! Yet, in all that turmoil, ever since mid-October last year – I kept thinking about Gold by Puredistance.
I must admit that I was somewhat overwhelmed by the end of the year, simply because I like to give decent time, thought and thorough wearing to fragrances I chose to review. Like with Gold.
Since this is my first post in 2020, I thought that it would be suitable to start the new year with something as fine as Gold, to mark the beginning of new Golden Twenties, Happy Twenties, Années Folles, and to glide elegantly into the new year with class and style! Let’s make it shine!
When it comes to Puredistance, this is a brand I follow closely for years: not only because it reflects the spirit of niche perfumery with elegance, pure extrait perfumes done by chosen perfumers, and a carefully curated collection of 10 perfumes in total – their releases are not so frequent at all. Much to my surprise, not long after Aenotus (Antoine Lie, March 2019), and nearly two years after working on it, Jan Ewoud Vos, the founder of Puredistance, decided that Gold is ready to to be presented to the World in October 2019. One liter of extrait was available at that time, and a small sample reached me one day prior to the official launch date: I remember that e-mails were written to the local post office, and calls were made to rush up this delivery – I was that impatient to get my nose on Gold!
When I finally did, it left me searching for the right words. All I could say at the time is that it truly matched the concept of timeless elegance and that it is simply beautiful. Even though I haven’t reviewed it at the time, Gold was included in my #TOP10 2019 for CaFleureBon The Best of Scent (check out the complete list here).
Gold. In its pure form, glowing, dense, soft, resistant, precious, rare, and the noblest of all noble metals, often associated with intrinsic worth and values (in best practices, as opposed to bling-bling superficialness) – is quite a demanding theme to be translated into a perfume. Jan started to work on it with now independent perfumer Antoine Lie in March 2017, having a clear concept in his mind, revolving around „The Golden Mondrian“ as visual inspiration for the perfume:
Since Puredistance is based in the Netherlands, the Dutch connection is obvious. Piet Mondrian, the famous Dutch painter is widely popular to this day, and famous for his use of lines, rectangles and basic colors. I guess he would have probably liked Jan’s Golden Palette and the transfer of his idea and postulates to the art of perfumery. It’s not only about strict forms and reduction of palette, which I also feel in Gold as perfume, there are some other key ideas he promoted that feel incorporated in this creation: Mondrian believed that art reflects the underlining spirituality of nature and that the more basic elements in art are, the essence of mystical energy in balance of forces that govern the universe is more visible. The same principle can be applied to olfactory art, right?
Balance…it was all about finding the perfect balance with Mondrian. His vertical and horizontal elements are representing essential forces of all kinds: the positive, and the negative, the dynamic and the static, the masculine, and the feminine. Finding perfect balance always involves tension as well: as in life, balance is as important in perfume! Even if one knows nothing about perfume compositions, we all simply „feel“ when a fragrance has a well-balanced formula: it attracts, raises attention, fascinates, and draws us in almost magnetically. Just like Gold.
Mr. Lie was also given absolute freedom in choosing a palette for Gold. One requirement was put before him: he was asked to make a statement. A statement of fine ingredients, without any compromises. He teamed up with L’Atelier Francais des Matieres, and given a carte-blanche from Puredistance, he asked for only the best.
A refined, smooth Oriental, Gold shines on my skin with glamourous and utterly elegant hues of a painfully beautiful fragrant work of art that is composed with a steady hand and a loving, passionate heart. The vertical line of its opening is drawn with subtle green mandarine notes, and squares of spices are added to balance it and add dimension: herbal rosemary and almost tender clove, with a touch of finely minced pink pepper. The balance shifts smoothly from citrusy to spicy, from fruity to herbal, moving in a deliberately slow, liquid rhythm.
The horizontal line that reveals itself after the initial burst of optimistic well-being is a white, floral line of delicate, creamy Jasmine reinforced with fine transitions of depth-providing labdanum and warmer glowing elements of cinnamon dust, warm and comfortable, relaxing in its inner glow, reminding me of the soft shine that golden objects have in candlelight. Pure relaxed elegance, self-conscious of its evanescent beauty, the heart of the composition that is drawing you deeper in, unfolding your folds, bright and saturating-opulent at the same time.
Over time, Gold shifts in the thick, liquid gold slow movement, releasing shiny sparks of previously incorporated notes upon the deeper glow of resinous base blocks. It is now that its Oriental side becomes more evident, with sensual swirls of resinoids just slightly colored sweet by very dry-smooth vanilla, and a volume adding, calming performance of patchouli and Tonka. What is most important is that all these note lines and block elements form a most beautiful overall composition that’s addictive in a very smooth, unobtrusive way. This to me is equivalent of sheer, timeless and effortless elegance, and this is something Puredistance seems to provide in other creations as well, not only with Gold.
Gold is also a third perfume representing brand colors of Puredistance Master Perfumes, perfectly unisex and arriving years after masculine-leaning, classy and sophisticated Black (Antoine Lie 2013), and somewhat feminine, tenderly floral, delicate, clean and silky-smooth White (Antoine Lie 2015). It also fits into the opposite, softer and more tamed side of Oriental range when compared to Sheiduna (Cecile Zarokian 2012) – a more dense, sensual, intense creation exhibiting Zarokian-style lush oriental opulence.
The first time I wore it I couldn’t stop smiling and humming: Gold…Always believe in your soul…You’ve got the power to know…You’re indestructible, ’cause you are – Gold! (Spandau Ballet). Now I reach for it when I need something to make me feel good about myself, to pick me up, to make me feel precious inside out, glowing gently like – Gold.
Notes (as listed by the brand): Green Mandarine Essence – Italy, Bergamot Essence – Calabria, Pink peppercorn Essence – Reunion Island, Rosemary Essence – Morocco, Clove buds Essence – Madagascar, Jasmin Absolute – India, Ciste Absolute – Spain, Geranium Essence – Morocco, Cinnamon Bark Absolute – Madagascar, Styrax Essence – Honduras, Benzoin Resinoid – Laos, Myrrhe Resinoide, Patchouli Essence – Indonesia, Vanilla Green Beans – Madagascar, Tonka Beans Absolute – Venezuela, Castoreum Absolute, Vetiver Essence – Haiti.
Gold is a 36% pure perfume extrait, available at Puredistance and their listed retailers in standard formats of 17.5, 60, and 100 ml.
The Plum Girl
Photos: The Plum Girl, Puredistance, Pexels
The sample was kindly sent to me by Puredistance, opinions&feelings – as always – of my own.