New Rose/Tobacco Fragrance (Unnamed Yet) / Antonio Alessandria
M.oldavite Green Light 18:9 / Olivier Durbano
Unspoken Musk / Francesca Bianchi
Tilia / Olfactive Pharmacy
Scottish Odyssey / Jorum Studio
Firewater, Healing Berry, Rose Highland, and Gorseland – although released this Spring, were completely new to me – I didn’t get around to this quartet of marvelous creations.
Euan McCall makes it difficult to choose just one, but since the presentation was exhibited on a distributor’s stand (meaning no samples at all), I had to focus on one – and my first choice at Pitti Fragranze 20 was Healing Berry. Bitter, creamy, sweet, jammy, contrasting with minty, fun, and delicious, this is a very different interpretation of berries – one that.’s – again – authentic McCall. I also liked the role Iris plays in this fragrance, making it cozy and comfortable.
My first impressions of other fragrances in this collection were equally highly satisfactory – these fragrances are beautiful, different, and original! Completely coherent with Pitti Fragranze values stated above.
Note: Couldn’t find a decent photo taken at Pitti Fragranze 20, I was too focused on smelling, and all the photos I have are blurry.
Tendresse D’Automne / TOBBA Perfumes
Not entirely new, released in 2021, Tendress d’Autumne is a perfume of touching beauty. I tried to try Tobba Perfumes and talk to the perfumer – Jasper Lie during Esxence Milan 2022, but every time I passed by their stands, there were too many people already waiting to do the same, so I gave up.
Well, I’m happy that I finally got my nose on Tendresse d’Automne – this is a beautiful nod to Chanel 5, but reborn, fresh, new, and contemporary!
A lovely chypre, emotional and grand, with an abundance of soft yellow flowers and roses. A quite feminine leaning, with a powdery Iris and subtle contrasts.
Moth and Rabbit (Parasite)
I’ve been circling around Moth and Rabbit for some time now, intrigued.
Off we go to Germany, again: founded in Berlin in 2016 by Elke Filpes and Christian Choi, all fragrances are created by Mark Buxton, and some of them felt – somehow different and very intriguing. Weird, to be honest. The main idea behind the Blind Vision line revolves around interpreting films, or scenes from films you might recognize immediately.
I was attracted to Parasite almost immediately: launched in 2020, not a people pleaser for sure – I was aware of that the first time I smelled it. Parasite is…different. It feels minty green, light, watery, and a bit sweet at first. If you’ve watched the movie, all things moving and shifting in this perfume will fall in place.
Most strangely, I found Parasite to be quite addictive.
When I met Buxton in one of the halls of Pitti Fragranze 20, he also told me that a new Moth and Rabbit is coming up soon: the movie inspiration behind the new perfume is Melancholia, so let’s wait and smell. This could be quite interesting, too.
There were a few Pitti and off-Pitti events in the city during three days of Pitti Fragranze 20 – less than I remember in pre-Covid times, so walking around Florence from the Fair to the city center wasn’t exhausting at all. It was mostly limited to evenings, after the Fair, and I looked forward to it: this city is a beauty I enjoy immersing myself in, every single time.
Weeks before attending the Fair, I exchanged messages with Christopher Draghi of Source Adage: knowing that he and Robert Dobay have moved to Italy, so this was an opportunity to meet at last!
Debuting in Italy, they’ve invited us to visit them in a wonderful Studio Dimore Collection (Via Dei Frassai 41) to smell their new home fragrance – dedicated to Italy. Fig it is, The Legendary Fig. This is a lively and green fig, inspired by wild Italian fig, with soft and worm nuances. Fig-themed fragrances have obviously marked 2022, and I’m happy they did!
I also had a chance to smell and have a peak preview of two perfumes they’ve created since they moved to Italy, launching at the end of this year and named Aka’ula and K’ilei. I’ll do my best to tell you more once these are ready to launch.
I’ve visited many other brands and stands at Pitti Fragranze 20, and some I still need more time to sample, test, and wear in order to finish my selection focusing on artistic perfumery, quality, authenticity, and uniqueness, There’s no rush, and reviews shall follow.
And Florence, Florence is always the most beautiful!
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