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artisan perfume

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Jasmine IS the cornerstone of perfumery: a perfectly unisex note, present in an impressive percentage in so many perfumes, for so many years. It’s always been talked about among perfume lovers: Le Fleur, „The Flower“. A source of inspiration or a challenge to excel for many a perfumer,  used since forever in fragrances in so many different ways. I was just thinking about how the season of jasmine has begun.
And then, after a long time and all the finest (or less so) interpretations, I came upon one that made me stop right in my tracks: Fado Jasmim by Miguel Matos Perfumes. What has jasmine to do with Fado? Everything.

The first thing Johanna Venables, founder and perfumer of NOT Perfumes, tells you about her creations is a warning. When you do NOT, keep in mind that:

“The Extracts are very concentrated and forbidden to wear on the skin due to the inclusion of possibly dangerous or irritating materials. Instead, it’s suggested they are used on a handkerchief, in a pomander or an aroma locket.

Some customers are tempted to wear them on the skin and report doing so, but they are very naughty people and do it entirely at their own risk.”

I set out to explore an artisan perfume brand –  Hendley Perfumes, starting with a discovery kit with samples of Amora (2016), Blond (2018), Bourbon (2015), Fume (2015), Mown (2017), Narcis (2019 Laboratory Series release), Untitled (2019), Bloodline (created for American Perfumer in 2019, limited edition, sold out), and a 9ml travel spray of Rosenthal (2015). Little did I know how smitten they all shall leave me…