I talked with Victor about the past, present, future of his brand, new releases, and asked him if he were to wake up as an animal – what would he be.
There were moments at Esxence when I felt like a gladiator in an arena, roaming around crowded floors of The Mall, armed with love and determination, in search of perfumes that might disarm me with their artistic creativity and originality, touch me soul-deep tapping into something unconscious, spiritual, profound, and cause waves of emotions…well, some certainly did.
Ave perfumes! Mission accomplished!
Strength and honor!
Did I mention 6000m2 of exhibition space? 221+ brands? You can find Facts&Figures&Learning Opportunities in my previous report, Part I, here.
Let’s talk about perfume. First impressions? Trends?
If I have to give a general overview, I would say: mostly “nice” frags, mass-appealing, easy-going, with elaborate marketing sugar-coating and all that jazz.
A few obvious “bestsellers”, even fewer “square pegs in round holes”. A couple of timeless beauties, complex but not loud, singing sotto voce…
I felt a much “lighter” (not necessarily “simpler”!) overall vibe, soliflores, fields of flowers, strong “Ambery-Woody-Cedarwoods” and “musks” vibration or “classic beauty” modern interpretations. Some meditative, poetic, very refined fragrances, including sparkling stronger-citruses-then-ever ones. Yes, there’s Oud but it is now being placed in the background, in a much subtler form.
Great perfumers signing quite a few new releases – it seems that big-shot perfumers have been busier than ever! Many new releases were announced yet to come, after Milan! Actually, a few I’m really looking forward to.
Summer 2019 is near: I also noticed many « oceanic, aquatic, sea breeze, relax ‘n’ take it easy » perfumes: sea, salt, sand, sunshine, holidays…as well as light florals or green minty-fresh ones, “Apres-Beach party” or classy French Riviera interpretations. Mood:
Important notice! Where you see no perfume-bottle-photos, it’s because: a) I forgot to take photos b) light was terrible and I had to delete photos – the ones I took wouldn’t be doing a favor to a brand c) I completely forgot to take photos because conversation was way more important, or d) same as c) but being completely blinded by love.
Let’s take a closer quick look at:::
Atelier des Ors
It’s always my pleasure to meet Megan Paki and Jean–Philippe Clermont: last year they surprised us with the White Collection…This year Atelier bottles turned deep-sea-blue (blue glass, not fragrances!), marking a new collection that promises a feeling of classy holiday evenings bliss at the French Riviera (Riviera Lazuli), easy-going mornings in a lush Mediterranean garden with lemon and orange trees (Pomelo Riviera), or relaxed afternoon drives along A8 highway along Côte d’Azur in a cabrio-convertible, wind ruffling gently your hair as you drive into the sunset (Riviera Drive)…
It’s all about old school glamour and Riviera dreaming -bringing back sweet memories of many days spent there…oh, how I long for Summer!
Reflecting a Mediterranean “living-is-easy” style with three new fragrances:
– Salado: fresh, sea&salt with prominent orange blossom and cucumber heart. Sunny mornings and that refreshing feeling after the first morning swim in clear blue sea water…my favorite.
– Fig Man: fresh, spicy, with a salty fig leaf and violets accord, warming up to patchouli – tonka bean finish. Siesta time.
– Bo–bo: ripe mandarine, orange & jasmine flowers, body movement, skin glowing, the sheer joy of fiesta time!
Ibiza: dear Joaquim Carner, please say “Ibiza” again, with that lovely “thhhsz” sound..Ah. The island of love, endless parties, sun-tanned skin, and sea salt in your hair. So he talked about Ibiza (Ibiithhsa) showing me fragrances Carner made for restaurants belonging to The Beso Beach Group, all launched in 2018, signed by Olivier Cresp, Annick Menardo and Christophe Raynard. Summertime flings and kisses:
– Beso Canalla: a little bit of lavender in your hair, a little bit of orange on your lips – a flirty kiss, warm and spicy.
– Bendito Besso: a fresh, morning-at-the-seaside kiss, with bergamot&jasmine in the shade of a tall cedar tree.
– Beso Negro: as the name suggests, late-night kisses – getting more passionate with patchouli-leather tones.
Summer: skin gets darker, hair lighter, and kisses taste better!
Miller et Berteaux
Menta y Menta
“Mint that doesn’t smell like toothpaste”: this is a bouquet of Moroccan mint reduced to fill one small fragrant teacup… So fine and well blended, like mint tea with a touch of jasmine – calming and gently warm in the drydown.
What a lovely discovery, one of my Esxence highlights.
All their timeless beauties exhibited at Esxence, plus Aenotus – a new fragrance by Antoine Lie, launched on 1/3/2019 – my review already published, you can check it out here.
I stopped by a couple of times and finally met Jan Ewoud Vos (founder) on Saturday (wearing a light blue jacket matching Aenotus colors), and we talked for quite some time. That helped me understand his signature fragrance better: quiet waters run deep…
“The Dutch prince of classy perfumes” does sometimes leave his castle hidden somewhere in The Netherlands to mingle with other people of perfumes: cool, composed, well-educated, aware of fragcomm but keeping his distance with grace. His passion is not bluntly exposed, his dedication firm and aligned with his personal values. Classy. Aenotus style.
Let’s take a walk around some other exhibition stands, in random order, just like I did:
Primal Waters Collection
Launched at Pitti in September last year (and on mind ever since), this new collection, like everything Santi does – is as niche as it gets. I won’t stop talking about it because, in my opinion, this brand deserves more attention. Three new fragrances in this collection: A, N, T (yes, ant!)!
My personal favorite is A–ADH – The scent of the anthill. Earth, mushrooms, vetiver, patchouli, and oakmoss: so different, so interesting. Most peculiar: it feels like you are breathing and living a busy life somewhere deep inside corridors of a freshly built ant hill…
Let’s not forget N – like NYC – a blend that the perfumer made for himself: a lovely, citrusy-green-herbal-fresh fragrance with a pinch of mint, and T as TDM (Toroella de Montgri – the town where Santi lives): herbal, smelling like Mediterranean hillside shrubs and bushes, aromatic with sage and thyme. Poetic.
Different, bold, and passionate: signed by Rodrigo Flores – Roux, these fragrances are something else and I’ll write more about them. Bravo, Santi!
This nose belongs to Sarah! I had no previously arranged meeting with her, but she graciously welcomed me and took her time to chat with ease about four new fragrances (new bottles, too!): Atlante (an A&O 2019 Finalist) by Sarah McCartney, Rules of Attraction and Jungle Jezebel by Miguel Matos, and Charade by Andreas Wilhelm.
Quite a line-up there, right?
I also must admit that aquatic Atlante attracted me immediately, but I certainly plan to devote more time to all four, especially much talked about JJ – now available in a more “decent” bottle (although the Divine -inspired one is still available, as limited edition. Yes, that bottle makes perfect sense. Divine, remember?).
Meet the Blackbird team!
When I first stumbled upon their Y06–S in Milan last year (a funky jasmine-gone-bananas fragrance with milky-electronic plastic-static notes&Oud), it positively surprised me: hey, it’s strange, funny, delicious, different, creative, and so wearable at the same time! I keep smiling when I think about it. Fun!
This year I rushed to their stand: Blackbird launched Pipe Bomb Pink: a synth-boosted hi-tech metallic-salty rose-short-circuit Eau de Parfum (Pipe Bomb flanker, and one of the most unusual roses I’ve ever smelt, kept re-spraying!), and Universal Supreme: a sweet&sour gourmand staub-sugar-ground cherry-pits freshly baked industrial pie with almonds-launching June 15th!
Not memory-triggering, rather create-your-own-fantasy-here-and-now fragrances – innovative, cool, relaxed unisex sexy, and unconventional!
What can I say that hasn’t been said before about this whole collection? Enter Splendiris, launched in Paris on 18/4/2019: I also received a sample a while ago: a very Dusita-handwriting tainted fragrance – smooth and vibrant, soft and earthy, so tenderly rhyming violet, iris and rose at its heart, serving them on a fresh fig leaf, oranges, and carrot seed -with a sensual drydown that’s recalling misty layers of last night’s dreams. I must admit that it wasn’t my love at first sniff: (maybe because of its name) I was expecting more buttery, rooty Orris (and I love that!), but it wasn’t until the second or third wearing that I started to fully enjoy its delicate, flowering beauty in the opening. Spring and warmer weather suit it well… And this trembling flower and all its parts, down to the dreamy aura it reflects so sublimely- managed to get under my skin.
Oudh Infini is one of my greatest Dusita loves, and on my skin, it is simply sensational! Ask Pissara, she’ll confirm!
Ithaka and Talento
Barefoot Perfume Fairy Stefania was presenting two new fragrances. She is one of those wonderful people of perfumes that make you feel that it was all worth it! Quick sniff& draft: Ithaka (Odori d’Anima Collection) is a fragrant poem about life journeys, destinations, new ports and harbors you sail to or return to ones well known. Ithaka brought tears to my eyes: I lost words. It carries traces of seawater, the opulence of stunning incense, Amber and Vanilla…
Talento (Talismans Collection): since I’m on a personal journey through a “year of roses” in 2019, this fragile, cold, just-budding rose featuring mint leaves and soft, silky-woody comfort is definitely a different, optimistic, youthful rose – although I could smell its thorns, tiny sharp rose thorns as well, still soft but present. A beautiful rose it is…every drop of it! Presentation is fascinating as always: that ceramic bottle cap!
It’s always my pleasure to meet Dimitri Weber and to listen with how much love he talks about Australia! Velvet Splendour is the newest addition: its sunrise is displaying lovely hues of orange blossoms and puffy, soft, bright yellow mimosa blossoms. Sunset of this fragrance is like thick oriental silk imprinted with a Tonka accord, with Opoponax adding a honeyed and sensual touch to Ambergris notes in the drydown. Elegant, a bit powdery, Oriental-spicy fragrance. Summer again, but this time in February, somewhere in deserts of South Australia. While I chatted with Dimitri, I forgot to take any photos. Which turned out ok, since he invited me to attend the launch in my home town, et voila!
I managed to arrange a meeting with Linda Pilkington, founder, creative director, and perfumer! When I arrived at OJ stand, dear Ivan Lozic (Brand Manager) was there too: what a warm welcome! I enjoyed our conversation, and Linda explained to me everything about Elixirs: chosen classics with a new twist. These beauties – Osmanthus, Ta’if, Royal, Ormonde, and Isfarkand– are stronger than ever (extrait), and Ta’if newly interpreted with addition Cambodian Oud, in a most subtle and elegant way.
You might’ve guessed that I’m an OJ Ta’if lover: I simply melt every time I feel this fragrance. THE Ta’if Rose for me! I could write poems about it, or love songs to it: I’m drooling all over the keyboard just when I think about it…heaven, I’m in thirty-petals Ta’if rose floriental heaven!
Let me just tell you this: the addition of Cambodian Oud is discreet yet so justified, and…so royal. There I go, falling in love head over heels, utterly and helplessly – again!
I was a bit nervous before our meeting, having such a high opinion of Linda: she is very approachable, simple and sweet! I managed to take only a couple of not-so-perfect photos, for reason c) as above mentioned, and d) I fell in love.
Essentials – Red Shoes
Released recently (Cannes last September, I think) and new to me: Cecile Zarokian created this fragrance inspired by a 1948 ballet movie and a beautiful red silk evening gown (created by Jacques Fath), sensual as heavy silk on your skin, sensational as Rose Damascena with a specific Zarokian touch: she has her way with Patchouli and spices…Juicy-ginger-fruity, chic, feel-good, and made me smile instantly! Didn’t have a meeting scheduled at JF (I guess I should have had?), talked to no one, no one talked to me, so basically I helped myself at this stand (too). Next time I’ll do better..
Exhibiting for the first time at Esxence! I could finally feel and touch these lovely bottles! My interview with Anastasia Sokolow (brand owner) and Cecile Zarokian, plus a short review of all fragrances is here. Anastasia showed me that the metal bottle cap can be worn as a ring!
What interested me the most was Kolonya by Rassei Fort, because I didn’t have a chance to try it before Milan. If his grandfather smelled like this, I only can wish more men today would smell the same. That a cologne! Rassei does blend his fragrances in a most amazing way: they transform with time and wear. Refined, complex, revealing itself layer by layer while you are wearing it – this is so enjoyable!
Optimistic citruses, a lovely Iris, plum, rosewood and flowers, Vetiver and hay, lavender and tobacco, and I felt the finest touch of animalic musk as well. This is more than just a cologne – it is mesmerizing and elegant.
Nice meeting Rassei – he is a living ‘n’ walking selfie stick – check out that arms-span:
Released in September last year (again), not really a re-write (in my opinion), but a totally new, modern and refined composition featuring the classic French archetype holy trio: rose, jasmine, and lily-of-the-valley – by the same perfumer – the one and only Jean Claude Ellena! A drop-dead-beautiful, heavenly executed Lily of the Valley (and I’ve never been a huge fan of it…), a huge romantic floral bouquet for a true lady. The base is so graciously feminine: vanilla done the only possible way I could ever love it, powdery and discreet, sprinkled over sandalwood and amber. This perfume unfolds little by little in a most subtle, elegant way. A joyful celebration of the beauty of life! I managed to take this photo while just standing there in front of their stand, silent, for a loooong time. I think they might have thought that I’m just a little bit strange – all I could utter while sniffing my wrists was “Oh!” and “Ah!”. Love, and must have!
Etat Libre d’Orange
Etienne de Swardt, Creative Director at ELDO was so kind, helpful, patient and friendly, even though it must have been a x-thousandth time he had to repeat the inspirational story behind Experimentum Crucis during one day, and day after day for four days: about Isaac. Isaac who? Isaac Newton! It’s clearly not only about the famous apple: Experimentum is also about light and gravity, about things and ideas that change the destiny of us humans. How does that relate to this perfume? Well, Etienne says that perfumes linger in space between fundamental science and feelings (love), and the element that makes these fragrant “experiments crucial” is – your skin!
Experimentum Crucis is a honeyed rose sprinkled with cumin seeds, boosted up by hi-tech Givaudan Akigalawood (fractioned from patchouli, with a woody-spicy-floral accord in the drydown – you’ve smelled it before), and so much more than that. This fragrance made me stop and think: it felt strong (cumin) in the opening but then it moved at a slower pace, it became lighter, more floral/fruity. I felt that typical ELDO fizziness, rose-honey-rose bursts, nicely done patchoulish tones (I don’t like it too heavy anyway) and it still remained sparkling woody-fruity. ELDO sexy on my skin…
It’s no secret: Olivier’s Pyrit Ana Tra (2018) made me cry, right there and then while he was still talking about the fragrance, and explaining his inspiration behind it. I know I surprised him, but luckily Anne-Cécile from L’Osmotheque came by and explained to him that I tend to cry and get all emotional when smelling an exceptional fragrance, and yes, I am an empath – so we’re good now. He says it’s a perfume of the Enlightenment: carrying his vibrations, transferring his emotions, the first fragrance in his new collection…it did vibrate to me.
I really can’t precisely explain why it moved me so strongly: it’s not because of any singular note or accord – it just felt so comforting, safe, tender and loving, primordial and true. Like a kind of a sanctuary built of big white-stone blocks, when you can actually smell the surrounding grass, rocks, trees, Nature breathing, and all that feels so out of this world, transporting you to your inner Universe… Is hugging a huge, soothingly warm rock on a foggy day, feeling grounded and extremely happy about the whole experience an appropriate description? No? Add a bit of dry tobacco, licorice and a pinch of resinous leather. And just close your eyes and FEEL. All feeling, not thinking, so I took only this one photo…
J. F. Schwarzlose Berlin
Timeless elegance, retro-chic inspiration, again. I must admit I’m fond of Schwarzlose because my father wears Zeitgeist (a souvenir from Berlin) sometimes, and I am instantly sentimental with 1A-33 and it’s Unter den Linden, “Berliner Luft” feeling. Their new launch is named 20/20 – inspired by roaring ’20ies in Berlin, glamour, dancing, cabaret, burlesque, and living like there’s no tomorrow. It’s based on their original formula of perfume Chic, dating back to 1920. Well, now 1920 meets 2020 – resulting in 20/20: a fruity floral with some spicy patchouli and vibrant, cool rose. Goes well with red lipstick and black suits.
Gustave Eiffel Parfumes
Courone d’Italie and Anne de Russie
Two new fragrances, inspired by awards given to Gustave Eiffel: the first one, Courone d’Italie is sparkling fresh with a white floral heart and a lovely tomato leaf and rhubarb twist, and the second one, Anne de Russie is my personal favorite: a spicy jasmine&rose heart with darker castoreum tones, and just enough of leather to make it “de Russie”. Interesting, and I like these bottles!
Seppia Collection – 3 new launches
I missed Olfactive Studio’s vlogger/ blogger meeting and presentation at 11 AM on the first day (something a few brands organized this year…and I attended none…), had no pre-arranged meeting, so I stopped by on Saturday to check out these 3 new fragrances in the Seppia Collection: Violet Shot, Rose Shot, and Iris Shot – by Dominique Ropion. During a very quick sniffing tour – Iris Shot caught my attention: a bright, green, almonds-milky and sharp spicy Iris, just slightly sweet when showing its woody side. A gourmand-Iris perfume, with a healthy touch of Ambroxan. The official launch is announced for September. I only took a couple of quick blotter-sniffs, so I’ll try to wear and smell these new releases later, when possible.
Les Insoumises Collection
Marjorie Olibere exhibited this year Les Mythiques Collection collection (Chemical Love, Dangerous Rose, Savannah’s Heart, and Leather Attraction), but the spotlight was on the Les Insoumises Collection (2018), signed by Luca Maffei: Le Jardin De Madame Chan, Le Jardin De La Reine, Le Jardin De Mistinguet and Le Jardin D’Amelie. The Romance Collection, light, fresh, pastel-colored, Spring/Summer-appropriate, inspired by female movie characters and legendary films. These are “timeless elegance” Eaux de Parfum, and my first choice is Le Jardin d’Amelie, because it made me think about the main character’s smile and inner beauty, an instant positivity dose. This rhubarb-raspberry-rose layering is so optimistic! Maybe it’s also because, just like Amelie, I love cracking the top layer of crème brûlée. Don’t you?
Olfactive Expressions No. 6
No 6 is the latest addition to this line, I had a chance to try it in Barcelona right after it was released. Master Perfumer Rosendo Mateu‘s sixth fragrance is a sensual-oriental fragrance: Sambac Jasmine underlined with vanilla strikes me first, but it’s not done with a heavy hand. It floats on soft cushions of warm Amber. After the initial sensual blast, it becomes more of a soft floral fragrance, blending Jasmine, synthetic musks and Amber with just a touch of spices, giving it a salty-fruity-coconut touch. Not revolutionary, but nicely composed and executed: reminds me of after-midnight walks around Barcelona in August…
Oh! Spirito…smells like a dream. Or waking up in a dark, green, shady, misty forest. You are in perfect balance with Nature, and its breath makes you inhale that stunning herbal smell, slightly resinous, with beautiful, bright vetiver: you feel at peace with Universe. A beauty. Fine and complex, poetic and pensive. Thank you, Meo for this lovely fougere…touching me soul-deep. What a discovery! I must return to it: a total eclipse of my heart!
Lovely, smiling, warm-hearted Rania Jouaneh welcomed Ana Y El Parfum, her sister and me like close family members: her new Musc Moschus is a fragrance we all talked about. With a reason: this is a very beautiful and unusual musk-centered perfume, combining different shades and vibrations of musks – not pushing them back to the base, but rather allowing them to shine softly in hues of golden honey and ripe fruits. Lovely, congratulations Rania!
Perris Monte Carlo
Rose de Mai and Jasmin de Pays (Grasse)
My expectations were high: I mostly helped myself at their stand, lifting glass bells covering scented cotton buds (no photos, I forgot to take any). This is it. Really. If you want to pay homage to Grasse, who’re you gonna call? Master Perfumer Jean Claude Ellena, of course. The man that can tell from which field surrounding Grasse and at what time in a day a rose was picked, btw. Jasmin de Pays is a tribute to this flower, city, region, tradition, the youth of a perfumer and art of perfumery written in delicate handwriting of a Master Perfumer I adore. Creamy jasmine with a gentle touch of clove and soft musks, living through all phases of Jasmine, from fragile softness to indolic thickness…or simply THE jasmine from Grasse, and one day it shall be mine.
Rose de Mai is pure poetry, again so divine in its seemingly simple feeling of dewy freshness, but only when it settles down you see a Centifolia Rose trembling on light breeze coming all the way from the Alps into the valley, early in the morning, opening its young pink petals with every golden ray of Provencal sunshine. Yet, this is not a bright pink rose only: enhanced with immortelle it shows its deep, dark beauty, the moment that broke my heart. This IS it. I’m in love. Again.
Like a Jewel
What a pleasant surprise! He must be smiling, wherever he is now: Freddie, I mean…Luca Maffei translates that unique Freddie Mercury burst of energy with the use of citrusy-ginger-fruity accord expanding over fragrant octaves from soprano-high to rose touched tenor and almost metallic baritone. I was so startled that I forgot to take a photo! Sparkling glam. I want it all!
I was stumbling around The Mall and almost missed their stand, because – they’ve changed – everything! A new visual concept was presented at Esxence, new bottles 100/8,5/2ml, new perfume (long expected) added too: NU Leather by Master Perfumer Luca Maffei! Luca does it again: what a Dolce Vita leather, on my skin boozy spicy suede – a gourmand garment…It glides from bitter to sweet…spicy to woody, at moments fruity too, in utter opulence – dat a “leather”! Beautiful. Congratulations!
I think I’m going to proclaim 2020 to be my “Year of Leather”…I can wear it with ease and confidence.
A photo I almost forgot to take, but Kate from Australia reminded me: yes, that’s The Plum Girl logo on a roll-up, listed as an Esxence Media Partner!
More friendly faces, love, love, love:
Stay classy and fragrant! Part III – Events&Extras is coming up next!
The Plum Girl
Photos: The Plum Girl, Esxence Official, friends&brands
It took me nearly a week to sit down and start writing about days spent in Milan. Esxence related adrenaline flow started to diminish right after I returned home, and I needed some time for things to settle down, to rest, sort out all impressions, regain objectivity and figure out where to begin…
Ah, the Millennials! Gen Y, born between early ‘80ies to early ’00s!
Who are they, this cohort of young people, generally marked by increased use and easy-going familiarity with digital technology, media, and communications? Are they App-friendly dreamers? Achievers? Peter Pans? Well, it’s a Millennial World we are living in now, take a better look around. They’re not kids anymore, and they’ve turned out just fine!
Here I go, again: the Danube seems to be the highlight of my recent city breaks!
Budapest is close enough for me (well, actually, every city in Europe is pretty much – close….) to hopp off on a short city-break, and yes – it seems to be getting more and more popularity lately, becoming more and more interesting touristic destination, and no wonder: Budapest is the tenth-largest city in EU, a Beta+ Global City and it is cited as the “Europe’s 7th most idyllic place to live” by Forbes.
There are so many museums and cultural institutions, the city is flooded with geotermal springs and wellness spots, it’s old Nyugati Railway station was built by the Eiffel Company of Paris in 1877., and it has the second-oldest metro line in the world, functioning very smoothly.
Yes, the river Danube is blue here and cruising along is really a wonderful experience!
Beware, niche perfume lovers: Budapest provides a great offer! There are four niche perfumeries in the center of the city:
Madison Perfumery is located near the Opera – Calea Doorobantilor nr 152. Sadly, the building was under reconstruction when I arrived, but I promised to return soon so I’m looking forward to revisiting and taking my time in Madison. It showcases leading niche houses, carefully cured beauty products…and coffee! It’s founders crave fine coffee and they are sharing with their clientele the high quality, small-batch beans of local specialty roaster. Next time I will most certainly devote more time to Madison!
There is also Cherry Garden Niche Parfumeria close to Opera house – Nagymezo u.47 and Le Parfum located in the Hotel Carlton Ritz, both with fine, although pretty mainstream niche houses. Le Parfum also offers Perfume Workshops – you need to book in advance.
Well, the whole idea of taking this trip (pssst! My family didn’t really know that until we got there!) was, quite honestly, because Rassei Fort told me a couple of months ago that Neroli Parfum&Luxe will become distributors for Fort&Manle in Budapest! The perfumery is located in a small street adjacent to the main shopping street in Budapest, you can’t miss it: Regiposta utca 19.
Neroli does have an impressive offer of fine niche perfume houses, take a look at these photos and check out The Plum Girl Instagram TV – there you can find a short video showcasing their offer.
So, I finally met Fort&Manle live and with the whole line presented.
Of course, they have just announced a new addition: „Forty Thieves“ – so I guess I will really have to revisit Budapest, soon.
This baby accompanied me home:
Fort&Manle Charlatan, edition 2018. I did post a really short quick sniff, first impression review on Instagram! When I test the whole line, I will most certainly write a more detailed review. Just for now, to answer any potential questions: yes, it’s worth a FB!
Even though the offer of perfumes is impressive, I was not at least impressed with customer service at Neroli. Much to my surprise, when I walked in I was hardly greeted: all SA’s were quite busy unpacking boxes and boxes at the back of the perfumery, hardly paying any attention to me. I did introduce myself properly. I did say that I do know what I’m looking for. Still…Ignoring a customer and unpacking boxes doesn’t leave a positive impression. OK, it was Monday morning, OK, SA’s obviously had quite a few boxes to unpack, but somehow it just didn’t feel right. Not when you consider the prices you are paying.
Budapest is relaxed, vibrant, filled with sounds and scents: do visit the main Marketplace. It is really big, filled with homemade sausages, dry red pepperoni, paprika, spices, vegetables and fresh cheese.
Old K&K restaurants and pubs offer superb goulash and paprikash – a must-try!
We enjoyed Hungarian lager beer, which really goes well with Debrecener sausages (debrezeni kolbasz) – heavily spiced with paprika, garlic, pepper and marjoram.
Do visit Budapest! It’s an ideal city for a short, weekend city break and I hope you will enjoy it as much as I did!
The Plum Girl
Photos: The Plum Girl Archive
PITTI FRAGRANZE, FLORENCE 14-16.09.2018. – Part I
Florence! One of the most beautiful cities in the world! Here I am again, just last Summer I was wandering around Tuscany: this time my experience of Florence is completely different, and I could return to it time after time.
Pitti time is something special. A gathering of people connected to perfumes, from all over the world. I needed some time for all the impressions to settle down, now I think I’m about to write a series of posts about Pitti Fragranze, from different aspects.
The 16th edition of this fine exhibition at Stazione Leopolda is a great stage for niche perfumes industry, together with numerous events throughout the city: unveiling perfume and industry news, featuring returning houses and debuting brands, workshops, perfume raw materials, and events dedicated to olfactory culture.
So much to see, learn and sniff!
People. People from all around the World. Perfumers, buyers, brand managers, distributors, journalists, photographers, sales managers, vloggers, bloggers, perfume lovers: around 2.150 members of the trade, from over 50 countries! 190 Maisons and brands! Celebrating perfumes…
Here’s to you, wonderful people of Pitti! Since we are talking about niche, indie, artisan perfumes, I feel that people behind the perfumes deserve our full attention.
Let’s take a closer look at some of the humans of Pitti, mostly by the order of stands in Stazione Leopolda from the main entrance onwards. Please have patience if your favorite person is not mentioned in this blog post! More will follow.
First of all, thanks to Ilaria and Olga from Pitti Immagine Ufficio Stampa/Press Office for taking care of my application. Big thanks to young ladies working at the wardrobe too, for their patience when I dropped by every now and then…often. Very often.
Let’s take a closer look:
Louison David Grajcar – Techique Indiscrete
Louison David, born and raised in Antwerp, Belgium was summoned to exhibit at Pitti just a few days before it opened! He managed to decorate his stand in a couple of hours, picking up some flowers and herbs just outside Stazione Leopolda. He did well, just being himself. Jerusalem is his newest addition to the Extract d’Emotion range.
I could relate to his interpretation of one of the cities I remember so well and long to return to. That’s not all: he is kind, gentle, and keeps reminding people that bees matter! Upon purchase of his perfumes, a certain percentage is given to a bee preservation foundation. He is greatly concerned about preserving Nature. He also makes candles, soaps, and teas. A very dear and special young man. Take care, Louison!
Andy Tauer – Tauer Perfumes
Everybody loves Andy! Why? First of all, he makes extraordinary perfumes. Secondly, he is a self-made man, working in his little perfume factory, driving deliveries to the post office with his bike, he writes a blog, actively posts on IG, issues a magazine…Tic-tac work, like a precise Swiss watch, and he embodies values we (yap, bloggers – we had our talks, too…) discussed as being the most important: authenticity, creativity, credibility. He follows himself only, speaks his mind and instinctively delivers beautiful works of perfume art. Plus a big smile and beautiful blue eyes as a bonus! Honestly, I don’t know how he manages to do everything he does on a daily basis. Swissness at it’s best, I guess. And love. For perfumes.
Yes, everybody loves Andy. Which made it difficult to have a meaningful conversation with him at his Pitti stand, but even that is OK. After Pitti, he made it known on his IG account: Tauer, the candles, are launching this October! And Les Annees 25 are almost gone, so better hurry up – if you can order online. Because one thing makes me crazy: I can’t even order Tauer Mag with a sample online, let alone any of the cute-little-familiar-shaped-bottles! Nothing, nada, niente, zip, zero: Croatia is not on the shipping list!
Dear Andy, please do solve this issue soon! We love you. You can do it! 😀 (Why do I keep imagining his little perfume factory like a Santa’s Workshop, with elves and marmots helping him? Why?) <3
Filippo Sorcinelli – Filippo Sorcinelli Brand
Most people know Filippo for his fragrances released under the UNUM, Nebbia and SAUF brands (inspired by individual organ stops on the Grand Orgue of Notre Dame de Paris, connecting music and perfumes, incense music…). Or LAVS. There’ve been some changes here: a new website and SAUF has been renamed into Extrait de Musique (this seemed to confuse a lot of fans, so let’s clear this out). Packaging has been redesigned, take a look at the new bottles: the lower part is now transparent. 2 new additions: Unda Maris 8 and Violin Basse 16! One other thing: new 10ml travel spray size! Priced at 35EUR, for all UNUM perfumes! This is just a quick intro, as I will write in more detail about two fantastic events Filippo and his team organized! The debut of but_not_today perfume was something to be remembered!
Filippo is a painter, photographer, graphic designer, and an organist. Creator of sacred vestments for Popes. (Atelier LAVS – L’Atelier di Vesti Sacre). An artist, searching for beauty everywhere, in constant creative fluxus. If you take a look at his FB posts each day, he starts with „Buongiorno Amici“ (hello friends), only to follow with „Buongiorno Nemici“ (hello enemies), turning his other cheek. Do I need to mention authenticity, creativity, and credibility again?
I feel only love for him, and his creations. A big thank you to his whole team and kind Cristina Brolli who handled all our communication.
Santiago Burgas Bou – Santi Burgas
Santiago is the creative director of the brand Santi Burgas, born in and loving Torroella de Montgi – dedicating one of his newest perfumes after this city. A multitalented person, too. A graduated textile designer, lover of nature and insects, especially ants – behold the new, ant-hill themed perfume!
Santi is sweet, gentle and kind, at first he might seem a bit shy, but when he starts speaking about his perfumes, his eyes sparkle! Art inspires him, ever since high-school. Santiago is a rebel, rebel as well: I think he enjoys greatly his creative freedom, doing some perfumes by himself and some in collaboration with certain perfumers.
We have a saying in Croatia: Quiet water wears down mountains. Carry on, Santiago Burgas Bou: you shine!
Romy Kowalewski – 27_87
Yap, you’ve probably heard her story: she was born on 27th, in 1987. She won’t disclose the month, you really don’t need to know her horoscope sign. Romy lives in Barcelona, where I first met her.
Millennial hype? She IS a Millennial. Studied hard, wrote her project, made it happen: she invited some perfumers to make something new, not existing on the market. She is determined, hard-working and yes, I loved her #hashtag: seems simple, with sparkling aldehydes. She uses hi-tech materials by Givadaun, obviously enjoys playing with molecules, so I guess Daniela Andier here made quite a hit.
GENNEXT theme goes on with her new addition, Genetic Bliss. Go, Romy, go!
Murat Katran and Mert Guzel – Nishane
Istanbul. Just one word: Istanbul. If you’ve ever visited this city, a lot of things about Nishane are much clearer.
Tradition, modern and cosmopolitan structure, Europe and Asia connected: this is the first perfume house from Turkey!
Are you enjoying Rumi’s poems? Well, Nishane gave us a perfume inspired by his poetry: Fan Your Flames. Little Prince? Nishane covered this, as well: Le Petit Prince Collection, Vain&Naive still sitting on my desk, a review half-written. They team up with chosen perfumers, collaborate, create, move and shake. And they are both ever so sweet and friendly, maybe sometimes overwhelmed by all the interest they’ve attracted.
Love you guys, aferim! <3
Sarah McCartney – 4160 Tuesdays
A lady with thousands of names for her perfumes. Bewitching. Funny and relaxed. Open, eccentric, having fun while mixing up and creating her perfumes.
I really think she is enjoying all this jazz enormously, employing her vivid imagination. Have you seen her FB post featuring a short video of her dancing and singing while shaking up a big bottle, mixing her new perfume? Amazing, to me – that’s Sarah.
She is a self-thought perfumer, scent lover, marketing-wise, fast-thinking and a just a little bit a perfume fairy. She is quite active in FB perfume lover’s group and I was really looking forward to meeting her.
Keep rockin’ Sarah: I can’t wait to see what you’ll come up with next!
She made me cry. One of her perfumes, to be exact. Under My Skin. Well, some perfumes do make me cry, but this one? I was sobbing. Intense, sensual, intimate. Triggering memories.
Talking about authenticity again? Francesca is Francesca is Francesca, take it or leave it. She has her personal view of perfumery and she is boldly hitting your emotions, yet in a very elegant way. She is intense and so are her perfumes, captivating. What a personality! Love her. As I love Sex on the Beach: after so many Summers spent at the beach, that sultry, warm, sun-bathed, sun-tanned, salt-on-your-skin erotic vibe is something I can definitely relate to.
Italian, self-taught, now living in Amsterdam. You bring sunshine wherever you go, Francesca! Thanks for all the tears and laughs!
Nick Steward – Gallivant Perfumes
Gallivant may be a relatively new indie perfume brand from London, debuting at Pitti Fragranze, but Nick, the founder, has twenty-and-some years of experience in the perfume industry. Yes, you know him, he is a veteran: if not from big companies, then as ex-creative director of the house L’Artisan Parfumeur.
Like many great noses, he decided to get back to basics. He is well-read, well-traveled, elegant and interesting. When people ask him „that“ question: „Whom are your perfumes targetting?“ he simply answers: “People. With skin.”
Gallivant is all about cities he knows and loves, atmosphere, a feeling: my kind of thing, definitely. His perfumes come in 30ml bottles: easy to pack and take on your flight.
His newest, 7th perfume is Tokyo: a tribute to Kodo, calming, easy-going, with a whiff of wasabi! Loved it! Immediately set my mind that I have to meet the person behind it!
I tried to find Nick on his distributor’s stand at Stazione Leopolda, but failed and didn’t manage to return to it later on (it’s easy to get distracted!). Well, as some things are meant to happen, while talking to Lucca Maffei standing in the crowd on the street, attending the opening of the new Essential Store Capomarzio70 – surely enough, there was Nick! We finally met, yeeey! And had fun. And meaningful conversations.
Do I have to mention authenticity, creativity, and credibility again? Nick is doing it his way and what an extraordinary journey he is taking us on! Congratulations! P.S. I really really don’t like selfies, naah, next time I’ll ask someone to take our pic. 🙄
Pissara Ploi Umavijani – Parfums Dusita
Much has been written about Pissara: she grew up in Thailand, surrounded by books and poetry. Self-taught, she began creating her perfumes, blending, dreaming…Working. Her passion is noticeable: she translates the poetic world into scents, taking you to Dusita, a paradise where you can be yourself, express yourself. Her value system? Integrity. Uniqueness. Quality. Philosophy of the brand. Her Siamese heritage is strongly present, her talent exceptional.
Say what you will, but Pissara is authentic. She walks her talk. With an irresistible smile, warmth, and kindness. She is living her dream, loving it, and that is contagious!
This year at Pitti, Pissara exhibited her well-known perfumes range but we also got a peek preview of surprises that will be announced: Dusita has a boutique in Paris and the Perfume Creation Atelier starts now! Blend your own perfume with Pissara!
I was like: just give me one reason to return to Paris, just one little reason…
Thank you for all your smiles, kindness and patience! Yes, personality matters!
I was also thrilled to meet (again) fellow bloggers/perfume critics/writers: it is so much fun to know who is (often) behind a nickname, to talk, to exchange opinions, to explore together, support each other…We had so much fun! Chapeau! Things we do for our love of perfumes, things we do…
I am looking forward to seeing you again, beautiful People of Pitti!
See you in Milan, next year!
Perfumes of Pitti? Check out The Plum Girl IG account, you can find short, first-sniff reviews there.
The Plum Girl
Photos: The Plum Girl Archive
Opinions of my own.