Tag

perfumes

Browsing

PITTI FRAGRANZE, FLORENCE 14-16.09.2018. – Part I

Florence! One of the most beautiful cities in the world! Here I am again, just last Summer I was wandering around Tuscany: this time my experience of Florence is completely different, and I could return to it time after time.

Pitti time is something special. A gathering of people connected to perfumes, from all over the world. I needed some time for all the impressions to settle down, now I think I’m about to write a series of posts about Pitti Fragranze, from different aspects.

The 16th edition of this fine exhibition at Stazione Leopolda is a great stage for niche perfumes industry, together with numerous events throughout the city: unveiling perfume and industry news, featuring returning houses and debuting brands, workshops, perfume raw materials, and events dedicated to olfactory culture.

So much to see, learn and sniff!

People. People from all around the World. Perfumers, buyers, brand managers, distributors, journalists, photographers, sales managers, vloggers, bloggers, perfume lovers: around 2.150 members of the trade, from over 50 countries! 190 Maisons and brands! Celebrating perfumes…

Here’s to you, wonderful people of Pitti! Since we are talking about niche, indie, artisan perfumes, I feel that people behind the perfumes deserve our full attention.

Let’s take a closer look at some of the humans of Pitti, mostly by the order of stands in Stazione Leopolda from the main entrance onwards. Please have patience if your favorite person is not mentioned in this blog post! More will follow.

First of all, thanks to Ilaria and Olga from Pitti Immagine Ufficio Stampa/Press Office for taking care of my application. Big thanks to young ladies working at the wardrobe too, for their patience when I dropped by every now and then…often. Very often.

Let’s take a closer look:

Louison David Grajcar – Techique Indiscrete

Louison David, born and raised in Antwerp, Belgium was summoned to exhibit at Pitti just a few days before it opened! He managed to decorate his stand in a couple of hours, picking up some flowers and herbs just outside Stazione Leopolda. He did well, just being himself. Jerusalem is his newest addition to the Extract d’Emotion range.

I could relate to his interpretation of one of the cities I remember so well and long to return to. That’s not all: he is kind, gentle, and keeps reminding people that bees matter! Upon purchase of his perfumes, a certain percentage is given to a bee preservation foundation. He is greatly concerned about preserving Nature. He also makes candles, soaps, and teas. A very dear and special young man. Take care, Louison!

Andy Tauer – Tauer Perfumes

Everybody loves Andy! Why? First of all, he makes extraordinary perfumes. Secondly, he is a self-made man, working in his little perfume factory, driving deliveries to the post office with his bike, he writes a blog, actively posts on IG, issues a magazine…Tic-tac work, like a precise Swiss watch, and he embodies values we (yap, bloggers – we had our talks, too…) discussed as being the most important: authenticity, creativity, credibility. He follows himself only, speaks his mind and instinctively delivers beautiful works of perfume art. Plus a big smile and beautiful blue eyes as a bonus! Honestly, I don’t know how he manages to do everything he does on a daily basis. Swissness at it’s best, I guess. And love. For perfumes.

Yes, everybody loves Andy. Which made it difficult to have a meaningful conversation with him at his Pitti stand, but even that is OK. After Pitti, he made it known on his IG account: Tauer, the candles, are launching this October! And Les Annees 25 are almost gone, so better hurry up  – if you can order online. Because one thing makes me crazy: I can’t even order Tauer Mag with a sample online, let alone any of the cute-little-familiar-shaped-bottles! Nothing, nada, niente, zip, zero: Croatia is not on the shipping list!

Dear Andy, please do solve this issue soon! We love you. You can do it! 😀 (Why do I keep imagining his little perfume factory like a Santa’s Workshop, with elves and marmots helping him? Why?) <3

Filippo Sorcinelli – Filippo Sorcinelli Brand

Most people know Filippo for his fragrances released under the UNUM, Nebbia and SAUF brands (inspired by individual organ stops on the Grand Orgue of Notre Dame de Paris, connecting music and perfumes, incense music…). Or LAVS. There’ve been some changes here: a new website and SAUF has been renamed into Extrait de Musique (this seemed to confuse a lot of fans, so let’s clear this out). Packaging has been redesigned, take a look at the new bottles: the lower part is now transparent. 2 new additions: Unda Maris 8 and Violin Basse 16! One other thing: new 10ml travel spray size! Priced at 35EUR, for all UNUM perfumes! This is just a quick intro, as I will write in more detail about two fantastic events Filippo and his team organized! The debut of but_not_today perfume was something to be remembered!

Filippo is a painter, photographer, graphic designer, and an organist. Creator of sacred vestments for Popes.  (Atelier LAVS – L’Atelier di Vesti Sacre). An artist, searching for beauty everywhere, in constant creative fluxus. If you take a look at his FB posts each day, he starts with „Buongiorno Amici“ (hello friends), only to follow with „Buongiorno Nemici“ (hello enemies), turning his other cheek. Do I need to mention authenticity, creativity, and credibility again?

I feel only love for him, and his creations. A big thank you to his whole team and kind Cristina Brolli who handled all our communication.

Santiago Burgas Bou – Santi Burgas

Santiago is the creative director of the brand Santi Burgas, born in and loving Torroella de Montgi – dedicating one of his newest perfumes after this city. A multitalented person, too. A graduated textile designer, lover of nature and insects, especially ants – behold the new, ant-hill themed perfume!

Santi is sweet, gentle and kind, at first he might seem a bit shy, but when he starts speaking about his perfumes, his eyes sparkle! Art inspires him, ever since high-school. Santiago is a rebel, rebel as well: I think he enjoys greatly his creative freedom, doing some perfumes by himself and some in collaboration with certain perfumers.

We have a saying in Croatia: Quiet water wears down mountains. Carry on, Santiago Burgas Bou: you shine!

Romy Kowalewski – 27_87

Yap, you’ve probably heard her story: she was born on 27th, in 1987. She won’t disclose the month, you really don’t need to know her horoscope sign. Romy lives in Barcelona, where I first met her.

Millennial hype? She IS a Millennial. Studied hard, wrote her project, made it happen: she invited some perfumers to make something new, not existing on the market. She is determined, hard-working and yes, I loved her #hashtag: seems simple, with sparkling aldehydes. She uses hi-tech materials by Givadaun, obviously enjoys playing with molecules, so I guess Daniela Andier here made quite a hit.

GENNEXT theme goes on with her new addition, Genetic Bliss. Go, Romy, go!

Murat Katran and Mert Guzel – Nishane

Istanbul. Just one word: Istanbul. If you’ve ever visited this city, a lot of things about Nishane are much clearer.

Tradition, modern and cosmopolitan structure, Europe and Asia connected: this is the first perfume house from Turkey!

Are you enjoying Rumi’s poems? Well, Nishane gave us a perfume inspired by his poetry: Fan Your Flames. Little Prince? Nishane covered this, as well: Le Petit Prince Collection, Vain&Naive still sitting on my desk, a review half-written. They team up with chosen perfumers, collaborate, create, move and shake. And they are both ever so sweet and friendly, maybe sometimes overwhelmed by all the interest they’ve attracted.

Love you guys, aferim! <3

Sarah McCartney – 4160 Tuesdays

A lady with thousands of names for her perfumes. Bewitching. Funny and relaxed. Open, eccentric, having fun while mixing up and creating her perfumes.

I really think she is enjoying all this jazz enormously, employing her vivid imagination. Have you seen her FB post featuring a short video of her dancing and singing while shaking up a big bottle, mixing her new perfume? Amazing, to me – that’s Sarah.

She is a self-thought perfumer, scent lover, marketing-wise, fast-thinking and a just a little bit a  perfume fairy. She is quite active in FB perfume lover’s group and I was really looking forward to meeting her.

Keep rockin’ Sarah: I can’t wait to see what you’ll come up with next!

Francesca Bianchi

She made me cry. One of her perfumes, to be exact. Under My Skin. Well, some perfumes do make me cry, but this one? I was sobbing. Intense, sensual, intimate. Triggering memories.

Talking about authenticity again? Francesca is Francesca is Francesca, take it or leave it. She has her personal view of perfumery and she is boldly hitting your emotions, yet in a very elegant way. She is intense and so are her perfumes, captivating. What a personality! Love her. As I love Sex on the Beach: after so many Summers spent at the beach, that sultry, warm, sun-bathed, sun-tanned, salt-on-your-skin erotic vibe is something I can definitely relate to.

Italian, self-taught, now living in Amsterdam. You bring sunshine wherever you go, Francesca! Thanks for all the tears and laughs!

Nick Steward – Gallivant Perfumes

Gallivant may be a relatively new indie perfume brand from London, debuting at Pitti Fragranze, but Nick, the founder, has twenty-and-some years of experience in the perfume industry. Yes, you know him, he is a veteran: if not from big companies, then as ex-creative director of the house L’Artisan Parfumeur.

Like many great noses, he decided to get back to basics. He is well-read, well-traveled, elegant and interesting. When people ask him „that“ question: „Whom are your perfumes targetting?“ he simply answers: “People. With skin.”

Gallivant is all about cities he knows and loves, atmosphere, a feeling: my kind of thing, definitely. His perfumes come in 30ml bottles: easy to pack and take on your flight.

His newest, 7th perfume is Tokyo: a tribute to Kodo, calming, easy-going, with a whiff of wasabi! Loved it! Immediately set my mind that I have to meet the person behind it!

I tried to find Nick on his distributor’s stand at Stazione Leopolda, but failed and didn’t manage to return to it later on (it’s easy to get distracted!). Well, as some things are meant to happen, while talking to Lucca Maffei standing in the crowd on the street, attending the opening of the new Essential Store Capomarzio70 – surely enough, there was Nick! We finally met, yeeey! And had fun. And meaningful conversations.

Do I have to mention authenticity, creativity, and credibility again? Nick is doing it his way and what an extraordinary journey he is taking us on! Congratulations! P.S. I really really don’t like selfies, naah, next time I’ll ask someone to take our pic. 🙄

Pissara Ploi Umavijani – Parfums Dusita

Much has been written about Pissara: she grew up in Thailand, surrounded by books and poetry. Self-taught, she began creating her perfumes, blending, dreaming…Working. Her passion is noticeable: she translates the poetic world into scents, taking you to Dusita, a paradise where you can be yourself, express yourself. Her value system? Integrity. Uniqueness. Quality. Philosophy of the brand. Her Siamese heritage is strongly present, her talent exceptional.

Say what you will, but Pissara is authentic. She walks her talk. With an irresistible smile, warmth, and kindness. She is living her dream, loving it, and that is contagious!

This year at Pitti, Pissara exhibited her well-known perfumes range but we also got a peek preview of surprises that will be announced: Dusita has a boutique in Paris and the Perfume Creation Atelier starts now! Blend your own perfume with Pissara!

I was like: just give me one reason to return to Paris, just one little reason…

Thank you for all your smiles, kindness and patience! Yes, personality matters!

I was also thrilled to meet (again) fellow bloggers/perfume critics/writers: it is so much fun to know who is (often) behind a nickname, to talk, to exchange opinions, to explore together, support each other…We had so much fun! Chapeau! Things we do for our love of perfumes, things we do…

I am looking forward to seeing you again, beautiful People of Pitti!

See you in Milan, next year!

Perfumes of Pitti? Check out The Plum Girl IG account, you can find short, first-sniff reviews there.

The Plum Girl

Elena Cvjetkovic

Photos: The Plum Girl Archive

Opinions of my own.

I was here in Grasse two years ago and upon my arrival this August I noticed some changes.
This famous medieval town in southern Provence – the perfume capital of the world – is looking (at the first glance) same as ever, on the outside, especially in the old part of the city. Yes, Jasmine scented water is still sprayed above the streets in the old city…

Yes, this is the place of the genesis of the perfume industry, yes, the celebration of jasmine (Fete du Jasmin) still takes place at the end of the first weekend in August, yes, this closely knit community safeguards this amazing intangible cultural heritage, but there are some new things in town!

You will notice signs on all the main streets leading to city center pointing the way to the famous trio: Galimard-Fragonard-Molinard Perfumeries, and I suggest you do visit them: they have shops, museums and offer a glimpse into factories, with guided tours.

This time my stay in Grasse coincided with an event organized by Fragonard, a conference.

I also took my time to visit two relatively new boutiques on Place de La Aires square in the old town: 1000Flowers Perfumer, by Jessica Buchanan and Parfumes MMicaleff by Martine Micaleff.

 

1000 FLOWERS

Located at 4 Place aux Aires, opened just last year. Ms. Buchanan, a Canadian who grew up on seashores and in the countryside of western Canada is the owner and perfumer.
She sold her house in Canada, moved to Grasse and studied at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery (2007.).

Following the training, she did what naturally follows: apprenticeship and internship, in Robertet and Mane. Now she’s a very active member of the community in Grasse.

There are not that many small perfumers here and there are some really big names present, but she says that all involved, not only parfumeurs, feel like a big family. One that she became a part of: yes, the main players and game changers are mostly Grassoise, but once you prove your serious intentions, work hard, participate and put in some serious effort, you can become a fully recognized member of the community.

Once you’ve proven yourself as serious, they accept you.

It was really a pleasure to talk to Jessica: she found time to talk to me about her fragrances, tell me what she plans to do (regarding Narcotic Flowers perfume) and we chatted about perfumes, naturals, men, rose fields and how it is to live and work in Grasse.

Besides her perfume lines, Jessica offers personalized perfume creation and consulting services. That’s another benefit of being based in Grasse: you do have direct access to expertise and experience in all areas of production.

I was also pleasantly surprised by her project „Perfume for Purists“ – back to Mother Nature botanicals, single note extracts in a neutral base of certified organic French grain alcohol. No additives! I hope this collection will grow, too.

Her Original Collection represents earliest fragrances she created.

I must say that I was really overwhelmed by Narcotic Flowers Perfume! Inspired by tuberose fields near Grasse, launched in 2011. I felt orange blossom, jasmine, rose and oh! tuberose! swirling around in a misty, intoxicating cloud around my head! Wow!

Narcotic it is indeed! You can feel finely blended, first-grade ingredients wildly dancing in this rhapsody of a perfume! As much as I was on my knees after inhaling this tuberose miracle, I do understand that some people, not to tuberose happy, would definitely call this perfume crazy.
I say: if you don’t fancy tuberose, stay away from it and alles wird gut…:-D

Jessica told me that she will announce and present in a couple of days (which she did by now) the new, reformulated Narcotic Flowers! I think that this reformulation won’t make you shed too many tears, on the contrary. Check it out, this is what she says: “Narcotic Flowers has been reformulated, and is all about tuberose, orange blossom, and ylang-ylang. I cut all the other flowers, and added lots of freshness to the top notes, no it’s now a fresh white floral with a carnal under current. It is, after all, a tuberose fragrance!”

When Jessica asked me whether I liked Narcotic Flowers, I told her my honest opinion: yes, I love it, it is truly tuberose narcotic…but. I am not sure I would wear it. It is just too much to handle, overwhelming for me. It really needs a special feeling, mood, atmosphere… She nodded and smiled, I guess this really was the issue with this mighty perfume all along.

Another one, rather controversial as well: Reglise Noire. Now, this is licorice! And I must say again: if you don’t like licorice, well, take a sniff at this one.

This perfume is not licorice only(at least for me)! You will surely appreciate it’s complexity: I find it very addictive.

There are spices, a hint of anise, vanilla, ginger and musk. A very beautiful, warm-under-a-blanket-on-a chilly-day perfume, but I also see that it is also one of those love or hate perfumes, no compromises…Quite interesting.

The Blue Collection perfumes feature flower extracts from local French producers and each bottle contains 5% organic Damascena rose water from a small producer in Grasse. Talking about terroir, hm? Well, Jessica surely covers that requirement! The most interesting one for me is Rose Casis Paradis (2016.): lovers of rose-themed perfumes, rejoice!

There’s a story behind this perfume: it is inspired by the Line Renauld Rose. Sweet, fruity, lush rose accord coming from a very special, award-winning rose – developed in Provence and named after the French singer and actress. Oh, sweet blackcurrant, pear, mango, and raspberry! This is Summer in a small bottle!

Thank you Jessica! I think that your creativity, dedication and grit will make a difference: Grasse is really lucky to have you!

 

PARFUMS M MICALLEF /MAISON MICALLEF

Founded in Grasse in 2006., quite successful. Very high-end luxury, uniting passions: Geoffrey Nejman (finance and banking), Jean Clause Astier (the Nose) and Martine Micallef (Artist).

The perfumes? Liquid luxury. Placed in beautifully decorated bottles, featuring old techniques and methods – are amazing.

Well, if you visit the shop in Grasse, located at Place aux Aires 14. you will see for yourself what their „Creative Desk“ looks like: customization workshop is right here!

You can create your bespoke scent and design, add initials, personal messages, engravings – right here, in the boutique.
I’m sure that most of you are already familiar with MM collections, an impressive line up of perfumes and I must say I am very impressed by Jacaranda Limited Editon (2017), featuring rose, spices and sandalwood.

Mon Parfum Pearl as well, a new 2018. flanker – Centifolia based, soft, powdery mist…My guess is that it is targeting Millennials…Yet, these perfumes have an incredible smoothness to them, like a signature style.

A difference can be felt: Jessica, an Artisan Parfumeur, is there for you (on a very short notice), passion for perfumes oozing out of her eyes. Unfortunately, I did not have a chance to meet Martina Micallef in Grasse (I did send a mail prior to arrival).

I like to meet perfumers/owners of houses in person: after all, one part of their personality is always present in perfumes they make. Next time, maybe.

Maison Micallef has approximately 900 selling points, yet they seem somehow hard to get (I think their site is the easiest way): I guess that is a part of high-end luxury branding.

I was received by most friendly, beautiful SA Karima and we did a video together – check my IGTV account! Now, that was fun!

Karima is very helpful, fast moving, quick thinking and kind SA. Karima, you are great! :-*

Parfum Baby’s Collection is really something to stop by: my son is into „serious“ perfumes now, but these! Little baby perfumes! Awwww!

One more thing: I did put on Martine Micallef’s apron (as you can see)! The very special apron, heavy leather one with gold finishing – made for her in Marroco…thank you, Martine, hope you don’t mind!

I also hope that these photos will speak more than words: this little boutique is certainly a huge plus for the whole city of Grasse.

 

ELENA MEETS ELLENA (CELINE AND JEAN-CLAUDE)

I planned my trip carefully and as soon as I saw announcement for the first Fragonard Conference to be held in Grasse, at la Maison Fragonard – La Fabrique des Fleurs (La Premiere Conference Olfactive: DIALOGUE ET HISTOIRE(S) DE SAVOIR-FAIRE) to be held August 7th, just one day upon my arrival in Grasse – that caught my eye.

When I saw that speakers will be Celina and Jean-Claude Ellena, together for the first time, you can just imagine how thrilled I was! I booked my place immediately!

Before the start of the Conference, all participants attended a guided tour of Fragonard factory, which was an excellent warm-up. Then we moved on to the Conference Room, fully packed.

A lecture followed: Ellenas spoke about the history of their family, the importance of know-how transmission and about changes in the perfume industry.

The conference was in French, of course, and although my spoken French is poor (French always offer me help and tell me that it’s “just fine” – but I know I could do better…), I understood every word Jean-Claude Ellena said.  He speaks beautiful French and his expressions are very poetic. When he speaks, his sentences sound like music.<3

Two generations of Ellena’s. Wow. Mr. Jean-Claude Ellena is a legend, a one of a kind Master Parfumeur. I don’t need to add anything more to this, really.

His set of values is well known: olfactory minimalism (ever since he left big companies), value of creation above commercial influence (the way he speaks about „marketing people“…), the importance of staying always curious, never stopping to explore, creating art for art’s sake and nurturing your olfactive memories.

He also spoke of the importance of terroir, but he also stated clearly that the industry in Grasse should welcome not only the Grassoise: new people bring new ideas, provoke changes, everybody benefits from that.

Celine Ellena told us how it is to be a perfumer when your father is Master Parfumeur.

With a smile, she recalled that when she made up her mind to become a perfumer herself, she thought that she needed a diploma of some kind.

Her father told her: „Then go and study something, get a diploma“. And she did: in psychology and linguistics!

Upon finishing her studies, she continued on her path of becoming a perfumer: first an ISPICA diploma, then apprenticeship at Charabot and Symrise…Now she is independent, working for The Différent Company, Biotherm, and Fragonard.

In 2018. Fragonard is celebrating its signature fragrance: Verveine (Verbena), created by Celine Ellena!

That’s not all: we had a chance to watch both Ellenas show us examples of perfumery magic. Paper strips were handed out – on one, vanilla. On the second one, Isobutil Phenyl Acetate. What do you smell when you take both strips?

Chocolate! The second „experiment“ was a recreation of strawberry scent. The purpose: a practical answer to some questions (again!) about the necessity of synthetic components in perfumery…

One more thing Celine Ellena shared with us: for parfumeurs, Grasse is great. Always has been:

Everything you need is right there. People, know-how, materials… Paris? Yes, of course, Paris is important for business activities, but Grasse? Grasse IS the capital of the perfume world.

I did manage to exhange couple of words with Mr. Jean-Claude Ellena: we laughed because I said „Nice to meet you, Mr. Ellena. My name is Elena.“ He said: „And you are The Plum Girl.“ One of the rare meetings when I didn’t have to explain, he immediately knew why I named my blog The Plum Girl…

I hope I have given you enough reasons to plan your visit to Grasse. I know one thing for sure: I’ll be back! There’s so much more to see, so many people and places to visit.

Elena Cvjetkovic
The Plum Girl
Photos: The Plum Girl Private Archive
Diaclaimer

Gold and scented pixie dust!

Just a week ago we were impatiently heading towards the Esxence fair in Milan, in anticipation of all it has to offer…ah! Sweet and fragrant memories!

I would like to share with you my impression and personal experience of visiting the 10th Esxence – The Scent of Excellence Fair in Milan 2018- for the first time.

The Plum Girl blog started just around a year and a half ago, so this was a kind of debut for me. First impressions about the fair itself? Here it goes, I give you a survival guide for Esxence:

Intro

A fair? I would rather call it an exclusive exhibition of the finest niche perfumes. The 10th edition of Esxence – The Scent of Excellence in Milan made sure that you feel like you are entering a sacred place when walking inside The Mall building. The Mall is located on Lina Bo Bardi square. She was an Italian born, Brasilian modernist architect, famed also for her furniture and jewelry design.

The contrast of a bright sunlit April day and the entrance hall dressed in black, featuring Esxence 10 years sign (gold!) accentuated the perfect Insta photo hot spot:

This black and gold combination, together with spaghetti curtains did its job. Like in all temples, you must walk through a niche or grotto before you enter the shrine itself.

Plot

I went down the hole. Ops! there goes my meticulously drafted plan of the first-day visit- poof! in air. Scented air. A lot of scents filling the air. I lost it, right then and there. A slight panic attack. I had just stepped out of my car after seven hours of driving, parked and plunged straight into heaven!

My thoughts: ok. I can do this. Just start slowly, from the left side and take it from there…you’ve got time before scheduled meetings…yap.

Feeling like Alice in Wonderland. Crazy Ice Age squirrel in a barrel of nuts!

Such an abundance! Any niche perfumes geek’s dream come true…

This is a world where most of the business cards are scented, “juice” doesn’t refer to a diet drink, sniffing is not an illegal activity and spriz…well, it’s not Aperol Spritz. Not here.

The first day was meant to give me an insight and full coverage of terrain, on the second and third day I executed previously planned visits and meetings and Sunday was just a quick recap. I did make a mistake: being too overwhelmed, I mostly forgot to take photos. Which is fine, really, because I focused on meeting people, sniffing, sampling, networking and having very interesting conversations. Next time I’ll fail better…

Special thanks to Meganmeganinsaintmaxime and JakubPersefume! They are ever so kind, helpful and sharing. As Megan said when I thanked her: “Someone helped me on my first visit to Esxence. I am helping you. You will help someone as well. Isn’t that wonderful?”

Bonus

You have a chance of meeting and talking to some of the most renowned people behind the perfumes you love! Art Directors, Noses, Creative Directors or Perfumers.

It gets even better when you don’t connect names and faces (I am a lousy perfumer/Nose groupie), this happened to me twice in Milan. Yep, I am learning from my mistakes. Even so, that turned out to be really cool because I was really relaxed while having a conversation with those two VIP’s (half an hour later, when I connected the dots, I was like: okeeey. Aha.)

This wonderful man I did recognize at once. I am a big fan of Aedes de Venustas and their new perfume is one that I fell in love with immediately!

Ralf Schwieger::: Perfumer (he doesn’t really like to be called a Nose…) and Musc Encense! for Aedes de Venustas. The list of perfumes he signs is quite impressive. I enjoyed our little chit-chat ❤️

Luca Maffei – sparkling personality, patience in presenting and renowned creativity, at Olibere Parfumes press launch:

If you are following my FB account, you can find more photos (the ones I managed to take – prepare yourself for the next Esxence) 🙂

Knot

The first day I wore heels for an hour. Spare flats were a relief. On the second day, flats were fully in action. Third and fourth day? Business Casual with -sneakers (I seldom wear sneakers if not practicing adequate sports activities…). Be gentle to your feet: you have 200+ stands to cover, starting at 10 AM until 5 PM …and all the fun doesn’t stop there.

Suggestions?

Smile, sincerely. You are in heaven, after all.

Wait patiently for your turn at stands to talk to brand representatives. Schedule your meetings.

Network proactively.

We are all here because of perfumes, right? Enjoy them!

Use wardrobe services. I dislike walking around with a bunch of bags in my hands. It’s not practical and I don’t think it’s polite to drag heaps of promo materials from one stand to another.

Reversal

Note to Organiser: Chapeau! You did a wonderful job!

Thank you, Agnese from the Press Office for having patience with me: hug!

Note to Exhibitors:

Feedback: (as one of my friends, a public speaking coach, likes to say: feedback is feedback. There’s no feedback to feedback. The purpose of feedback is to improve things!)

First, allow me to say that in my corporate days I did create, organize and manage quite a few stands on international fairs and trade shows. On the other side of the stand, as an Exhibitor, so I pretty much know what I am talking about.

I met truly amazing, wonderful and helpful people who treated my Press accreditation with respect and did a great job in representing brands. Thank you!

On the other hand, a few brand representatives’ behaviors can only be described as simply rude, uninterested, arrogant and haughty.

As a coach, I see possibilities for your improvement, guys. Do prepare yourself for fairs and trade shows.Train/coach your brand representatives or hosts/hostesses. It pays back. Yes, things get busy, yes, it is tiresome to take care of a stand all day long, day in, day out and talk to hundreds of people asking thousand of questions, but – hey! This is brand building at it’s most direct form. Besides being press people, we are – customers as well, right?

First impressions are made in 7 seconds and last for a very, very long time. Do mind that bloggers and press people exchange their impressions and that a repeated faux pas might really affect your brand reputation. Do you boast about your brand’s core values? Live them. It’s called authenticity.

Recognition

Esxence makes this world a better place.

It is truly an amazing, international display of fine perfumery at it’s best! Such a whirlwind of amazing fragrances. I highly recommended it! If I might help you next time I’m there – just let me know!

I am thankful for meeting so many simply wonderful people! That is the greatest benefit. Secondly, I did take home some new perfumes to review, for you! Some more should arrive by post, so this will provide material for more reviews for you to read!

Just follow #theadventuresofacuriousnose!

P.S. On one of the stands, their brand representative told me that I am a Meryl Streep look-alike. Maybe I am, but apart from looks I also share this statement:

“I no longer have the patience for certain things, not because I’ve become arrogant, but simply because I reached a point in my life where I do not want to waste more time with what displeases me or hurts me. I have no patience for cynicism, excessive criticism and demands of any nature. I lost the will to please those who do not like me, to love those who do not love me and to smile at those who do not want to smile at me. I no longer spend a single minute on those who lie or want to manipulate. I decided not to coexist anymore with pretense, hypocrisy, dishonesty and cheap praise. I do not tolerate selective erudition nor academic arrogance. I do not adjust either to popular gossiping. I hate conflict and comparisons. I believe in a world of opposites and that’s why I avoid people with rigid and inflexible personalities. In friendship, I dislike the lack of loyalty and betrayal. I do not get along with those who do not know how to give a compliment or a word of encouragement. Exaggerations bore me and I have difficulty accepting those who do not like animals. And on top of everything I have no patience for anyone who does not deserve my patience”. -Meryl Streep

See, I didn’t write about perfumes at all 🙂

Will do, will do, soon…

See you next year in Milan!

The Plum Girl

Photos: ThePlumGirl, Olibere Parfums (Luca Maffei)

 

(I used storytelling drama structure principle, based on Aristotle’s “Poetics”)

While I was in Milan with my team, attending Esxence – The Scent of Excellence, The FF Awards Finalists’ Luncheon was held on Friday, April 6, 2018.

Here are the results! Yassss, Cuir de Russie by Le Jardin Retrouve review was indeed among the TOP 5 Finalists for the award Editorial Excellence – Online!
I was like:

The top five finalists for The Fragrance Foundation Awards and winners in Editorial Excellence, Social Media Campaign, and 360-Degree Media Campaign were unveiled!

Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage awards was presented for three categories including Article, Online, and Feature. ELLE Magazine won both the Article and Feature categories with “Dream Catchers” and “This Is Your Brain on Vetiver,” respectively, both written by April Long. The Cut won the Online category for “It Took 150 Tries for Dior to Make Their Next Hit Perfume for Millennials” written by Kathleen Hou.

ONLINE
Winner
THECUT.COM – It Took 150 Tries for Dior to Make Their Next Hit Perfume for
Millennials


Finalists (In alphabetical order)

ÇAFLEUREBON.COM – Perfume, Poetry, and Rock: The Scented Intersection of
Transformation
ELLE.COM – Notes From Underground: Can a Fragrance Help Us Embrace Mortality
FRAGRANTICA.COM – Gold As a Parfumistic Concept
THECUT.COM – It Took 150 Tries for Dior to Make Their Next Hit Perfume for
Millennials
THEPLUMGIRL.COM – Cuir de Russie, by Elena Cvjetkovic

Parfums Christian Dior’s campaign for Miss Dior Eau De Parfum won the award for the Best Social Media Campaign, while Gucci Bloom by Coty was voted as best 360- Degree Marketing Campaign.

Ann Gottlieb, celebrated perfume strategist and founder of Ann Gottlieb Associates, was announced as the 2018 Hall of Fame Honoree. Ms. Gottlieb is widely recognized in the fragrance industry for her masterful ability to translate brands and personalities into fragrances that are both captivating and enduring. Ms. Gottlieb, whose work spans across every fragrance and market category, helped create iconic fragrances such as Daisy Marc Jacobs, Christian Dior J’Adore, Calving Klein Eternity and countless others.

“I adore fragrance,” said Ms. Gottlieb. “I love this industry and the people in it. So I
am thrilled to be honored by my peers for my life’s work, which has brought me so much joy and fulfillment.”


Olivier Cresp
, Master Perfumer at Firmenich, was announced as the recipient of the Lifetime Perfumer Achievement Perfumer award. Both Ms. Gottlieb and Mr.Cresp will be honored by the fragrance industry at The Fragrance Foundation Awards.

“The Foundation’s mission is to inspire the world to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance,” said The Fragrance Foundation president Linda G. Levy. “Every single winner, finalist and honoree announced today has played a central
role in helping to achieve this mission, and we’re thrilled to have the opportunity to recognize their contributions.”

Victoria’s Secret Angel and IMG model, Romee Strijd was awarded The Fragrance Foundation’s Face of the Year, presented by Greg Unis, CEO of Victoria’s Secret Beauty.

The winners for Fragrance of the Year and all other categories will be celebrated at The Fragrance Foundation Awards hosted by award-winning actress, Jane Krakowski, on Tuesday, June 12th at Lincoln Center, Alice Tully Hall.


THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION AWARDS 2018 WINNERS

FACE OF THE YEAR
Romee Strijd

SOCIAL MEDIA CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR
Winner

MISS DIOR EAU DE PARFUM – Parfums Christian Dior

Finalists (In alphabetical order)
GUCCI BLOOM – Coty, Inc.
KATY PERRY’S INDI – Coty, Inc.
MISS DIOR EAU DE PARFUM – Parfums Christian Dior
TOM FORD FABULOUS – Tom Ford Beauty
Y, YSL – YSL Beauté


360-DEGREE MARKETING CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR

Winner
GUCCI BLOOM – Coty, Inc.

Finalists (In alphabetical order)
CAROLINA HERRERA GOOD GIRL – PUIG
GUCCI BLOOM – Coty, Inc.
EMPORIO ARMANI – Giorgio Armani
MISS DIOR EAU DE PARFUM – Parfums Christian Dior
VICTORIA’S SECRET LOVE – Victoria’s Secret

EDITORIAL EXCELLENCE IN FRAGRANCE COVERAGE
FEATURE

Winner
ELLE MAGAZINE – This Is Your Brain On Vetiver

Finalists (In alphabetical order)
ALLURE – The New Fragrance Frontier
ELLE MAGAZINE – This Is Your Brain On Vetiver
MARIE CLAIRE – Into The Wild
MARIE CLAIRE – Popping Bottles
MARIE CLAIRE – Something’s In The Air

ARTICLE
Winner
ELLE MAGAZINE – Dream Catchers

Finalists (In alphabetical order)
ALLURE – Going Rogue
ELLE MAGAZINE – Dream Catchers
ELLE MAGAZINE – Scent-Sational
MARIE CLAIRE – In Her Own Words: Haley Bennett
MARIE CLAIRE – In Her Own Words: Jennifer Aniston

TOP FIVE FINALISTS
(All finalists listed in alphabetical order)


FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR
WOMEN’S LUXURY

BYREDO VELVET HAZE – Byredo
GABRIELLE CHANEL – CHANEL
TIFFANY & CO. EAU DE PARFUM – Coty, Inc.
TOM FORD FABULOUS – Tom Ford Beauty
TWILLY D’HERMÈS – Hermès Parfums
MEN’S LUXURY
ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA PURA EAU DE COLOGNE – LVMH
GOLD KNIGHT – By Kilian
L’ENVOL DE CARTIER – Cartier
VIKTOR & ROLF MAGIC SAGE SPELL – Viktor & Rolf
TOM FORD OUD MINÉRALE – Tom Ford Beauty
WOMEN’S PRESTIGE
BLACK TULIP – NEST Fragrances
CAROLINA HERRERA GOOD GIRL – PUIG
GUCCI BLOOM – Coty, Inc.
JUICY COUTURE VIVA LA JUICY GLACÉ – Revlon
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ PARFUMS-FOR HER FLEUR MUSC – Shiseido Fragrances
WOMAN BY RALPH LAUREN – Ralph Lauren Fragrances
MEN’S PRESTIGE
COACH FOR MEN – Interparfums
HUGO BOSS, BOSS BOTTLED TONIC – Coty, Inc.
JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN PURE – Revlon
PRADA LUNA ROSSA CARBON – PUIG
Y BY YSL – YSL Beauté
POPULAR
ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA – Revlon
GLOSSIER YOU – Glossier Inc.
ORIGINAL PENGUIN ICONIC BLEND – Falic Fashion Group
SHAWN MENDES SIGNATURE – Revlon
VICTORIA’S SECRET LOVE – Victoria’s Secret
PERFUME EXTRAORDINAIRE OF THE YEAR
FIRMENICH
GIVAUDAN
INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES
MANE
ROBERTET
BREAKOUT STAR
DIOR SAUVAGE – Parfums Christian. Dior
MAISON MARGIELA REPLICA BEACH WALK – Maison Margiela Fragrances
MIU MIU EAU DE. PARFUM – Coty, Inc.
PEONY & BLUSH SUEDE – Jo Malone London
TORY BURCH EAU DE PARFUM – The Estée Lauder Companies

INDIE FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR
ARTIST – Phuong Dang
MAISON TRUDON PARFUM IN BRUMA
MAISON TRUDON PARFUM IN II (DEUX)
MAISON TRUDON PARFUM IN MORTEL
POTENTIA AMBER GOD – House of Potentia


PACKAGING OF THE YEAR

WOMEN’S
CAROLINA HERRERA GOOD GIRL – PUIG
JASON WU EAU DE PARFUM – Parlux, LTD
TIFFANY & CO. EAU DE PARFUM – Coty, Inc.
VICTORIA’S SECRET LOVE – Victoria’s Secret
WOMAN BY RALPH LAUREN – Ralph Lauren Fragrances
WOMAN IN GOLD – By Kilian
MEN’S
COACH FOR MEN – Interparfums
GOLD KNIGHT – By Kilian
GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE POUR HOMME – Coty, Inc.
JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN PURE – Revlon
Y BY YSL – YSL Beauté
MEDIA CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR
WOMEN’S
CAROLINA HERRERA GOOD GIRL – PUIG
GABRIELLE CHANEL – CHANEL
GUCCI BLOOM – Coty, Inc.
MISS DIOR EAU DE PARFUM – Parfums Christian Dior
TWILLY D’HERMÈS – Hermès Parfums
VICTORIA’S SECRET LOVE – Victoria’s Secret
MEN’S
ARMANI CODE COLONIA – Giorgio Armani
ETERNITY CALVIN KLEIN – Coty, Inc.
PERRY ELLIS FOR MEN – Falic Fashion Group

HOME COLLECTION OF THE YEAR
COMMODITY HOME and BODY – Commodity
DIPTYQUE 34 BOULEVARD SAINT GERMAIN – diptyque Paris
MAISON MARGIELA REPLICA CANDLES – Maison Margiela Fragrances
SUGAR COOKIE COLLECTION – NEST Fragrances
TOCCA VOYAGE HOME FRAGRANCE COLLECTION – Tocca
BATH & BODY LINE OF THE YEAR
AROMATHERAPY COLLECTION FROM BATH & BODY WORKS – Bath & Body Works
DIPTYQUE DO SON FRAGRANCE GESTURES – diptyque Paris
JO MALONE LONDON EXFOLIATING SHOWER GEL – Jo Malone London
MAISON MARGIELA REPLICA BEACH WALK BATH LINE – Maison Margiela
Fragrances
VICTORIA’S SECRET ANGEL GLAM COLLECTION – Victoria’s Secret
HOME HOLIDAY/SEASONAL SECENT OF THE YEAR
LES CONSTELLATIONS – diptyque Paris
GREEN ALMOND & REDCURRANT CANDLE – Jo Malone London
HOLIDAY LIQUIDLESS DIFFUSERS – NEST Fragrances
HOLIDAY PAJAMAS – philosophy – Coty, Inc.
CONSUMER CHOICE AWARDS
WOMEN’S

AT THE BEACH – Bath & Body Works
CAROLINA HERRERA GOOD GIRL – PUIG
KATY PERRY’S INDI – Coty, Inc.
KKW CRYSTAL GARDENIA – KKW FRAGRANCES
LA VIE EST BELLE L’ECLAT – Lancôme
VICTORIA’S SECRET LOVE – Victoria’s Secret
MEN’S
COACH FOR MEN – Interparfums
HUGO BOSS, BOSS BOTTLED TONIC – Coty, Inc.
PRADA LUNA ROSSA CARBON – PUIG
FRAGRANCE VLOG OF THE YEAR
5 REASONS TO WEAR FRAGRANCES – Jeremy Fragrance
10 FRAGRANCES YOU NEED IN YOUR COLLECTION WHEN STARTING OUT | MEN’S
DESIGNER FRAGRANCES – Sebastian Jara
HOW TO BE MORE ATTRACTIVE | 4 LIFE HACKS THAT WORK! – Edward Zo
TOP 12 FORMAL OCCASION FRAGRANCES WITH REDOLESSENCE – Carlos J Powell
and Steven Gavrielatos
FRAGRANCE HALL OF FAME
CUCUMBER MELON- Bath & Body Works
CURVE FOR MEN – Revlon
PHILOSOPHY AMAZING GRACE – philosophy – Coty, Inc.
TRÉSOR – Lancôme

The Plum Girl
Source: TFF Press Release, 6th April 2018., TFF Photo by Casey Kelbaugh

I got the mail. I cried. I laughed. Danced. Simultaneously.

My first reaction? A blast of emotions! (I can’t keep calm, I’m Croatian!) Of such intense that I emailed Ms. Linda G. Levy, the President of The Fragrance Foundation in reply, saying something like “OMG, wow, faint, swoon, thank you, thank you, thank you!”
It took me a whole day (and a sleepless night) to reply properly, blaming my SOTD for this outburst of emotions 😀

Let’s do the official part first. Later on, I will let you know my thoughts on the subject of prizes, awards, game-changers, players and newcomers.

Here it goes:



The Fragrance Foundation Awards (formerly named the FiFi awards) & Celebration is an annual event hosted by The Fragrance Foundation that honors creative excellence and achievement in the fragrance industry. The Awards events have been held annually in New York City since 1973 and are attended by around 1,000 members of the international fragrance community, designers and celebrities from the fashion, theatre, film, or television industries.

These awards are known as the “Oscars of the fragrance industry”!

The Fragrance Foundation announces The 2018 Top 10 Finalists For The Fragrance Foundation Awards as follows.

The Top 5 Finalists Of The Top 10 Will Be Unveiled At The Annual Fragrance Foundation Finalists’ Luncheon On Friday, April 6, 2018, At 538 Park Avenue In New York City.

Winners Will Be Unveiled For Editorial Excellence, Social Media Campaign, and 360-Degree Marketing.

“The Fragrance Foundation is pleased to have an impressive array of compelling fragrances in Luxury, Prestige, Popular, Indie and Consumer Choice categories,” said president Linda G. Levy. “Our member companies continue to inspire all of us to discover the artistry and passion of fragrance.”

Winners in all the other categories will be announced at the Fragrance Foundation Awards, to be held Tuesday, June 12, 2018 at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall.

Here are the 2018 Top Ten Finalists For The Fragrance Foundation Awards:

Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage
Feature

• ALLURE – The New Fragrance Frontier
• ELLE MAGAZINE – This Is Your Brain On Vetiver
• MARIE CLAIRE – Into The Wild
• MARIE CLAIRE – Popping Bottles
• MARIE CLAIRE – Something’s In The Air
• NEZ –THE OLFACTORY MAGAZINE – Critical Effects

Article
• ALLURE – Going Rogue
• ELLE MAGAZINE – Dream Catchers
• ELLE MAGAZINE – Scent-Sational
• MARIE CLAIRE – In Her Own Words: Haley Bennett
• MARIE CLAIRE – In Her Own Words: Jennifer Aniston

Online
• ÇAFLEUREBON.COM – Elizabeth and James Nirvana French Grey “Shades of Grey”
• ÇAFLEUREBON.COM – Opium Den: Studio 54 and the Launch of Yves St. Laurent Opium
• ÇAFLEUREBON.COM – Perfume, Poetry and Rock: The Scented Intersection of Transformation
• COLOGNOISSEUR – The Scent of Christmas Past
• ELLE.COM – Notes From Underground: Can a Fragrance Help Us Embrace Mortality
• FRAGRANTICA.COM – Gold As a Parfumistic Concept
• HARPERSBAZAAR.COM – How I Fell Back In Love With An Old Perfume
• THECUT.COM – It Took 150 Tries for Dior to Make Their Next Hit Perfume for Millennials
THEPLUMGIRL.COM – The Scent of Slavic Melancholy – Elena Cvjetkovic
THEPLUMGIRL.COM – Cuir de Russie – Elena Cvjetkovic

Fragrance Of The Year
• ARMANI/PRIVÉ NEW YORK – Giorgio Armani
• BYREDO VELVET HAZE – Byredo
• CLÉMENTINE CALIFORNIA – Atelier Cologne
• GABRIELLE CHANEL – CHANEL
• JASON WU EAU DE PARFUM – Parlux
• LTDMISS DIOR EAU DE PARFUM – Christian Dior
• TIFFANY & CO. EAU DE PARFUM – Coty, Inc.
• TOM FORD FABULOUS – Tom Ford Beauty
• TWILLY D’HERMÈS – HermèsParfums
• WOMAN IN GOLD – By Kilian
Men’s Luxury
• ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA PURA EAU DE COLOGNE – LVMH
• DIPTYQUE VETYVERIO – diptyque Paris
• ENGLISH OAK & HAZELNUT COLOGNE – Jo Malone London
• GOLD KNIGHT – By Kilian
• L’ENVOL DE CARTIER – Cartier
• MYRRH & TONKA COLOGNE INTENSE – Jo Malone London
• TOM FORD OUD MINÉRALE – Tom Ford Beauty
Women’s Prestige
• BLACK TULIP – NEST Fragrances
• CAROLINA HERRERA GOOD GIRL – PUIG
• DOLCE & GABBANA LIGHT BLUE EAU INTENSE – Shiseido Fragrances
• GOLDEA THE ROMAN NIGHT – Bvlgari
• GUCCI BLOOM – Coty, Inc.
• JUICY COUTURE VIVA LA JUICY GLACÉ – Revlon
• NARCISO RODRIGUEZ PARFUMS-FOR HER FLEUR MUSC – Shiseido Fragrances
• TERRE DE LUMIÈRE EAU DE PARFUM – L’occitaneen Provence
• WOMAN BY RALPH LAUREN – Ralph Lauren Fragrances
Men’s Prestige
• AZZARO WANTED – Clarin’s Fragrance Group
• COACH FOR MEN – Interparfums
• DOLCE&GABBANA LIGHT BLUE EAU INTENSE POUR HOMME – Shiseido Fragrances
• GENTLEMAN GIVENCHY – LVHM
• BOSS – HUGO BOSS
• BOTTLED TONIC – Coty, Inc.
• JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN PURE – Revlon
• MISSONI PARFUM POUR HOMME – Euroitaly
• PRADA LUNA ROSSA CARBON – PUIG
• SALVATORE FERRAGAMO UOMO CASUAL LIFE – Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums
• Y BY YSL – YSL Beauté
Popular
• DIAMONDS BLUSH – Jafra Cosmetics International
• ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA – Revlon
• GLOSSIER YOU – Glossier Inc.
• NAVIGO OCEAN HOMME – Jafra Cosmetics International
• ORIGINAL PENGUIN ICONIC BLEND – Falic Fashion Group
• PERRY ELLIS FOR MEN – Falic Fashion Group
• SHAWN MENDES SIGNATURE –Revlon
• VICTORIA’S SECRET LOVE – Victoria’s Secret
Perfume Extraordinaire
• CHANEL
• COSMO INTERNATIONAL FRAGRANCES
• FIRMENICH
• FUEGUIA 1833
• GIVAUDAN
• INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES
• MANE
• ROBERTET
• SERGE LUTENS
• SYMRISE
Breakout Star
• CHRISTIAN SIRIANO SILHOUETTE – The Fragrance Group
• COMMODITY GOLD – Commodity
• DIOR SAUVAGE – Parfums Christian. Dior
• INDIGO – NEST Fragrances
• MAISON MARGIELA REPLICA BEACH WALK – Maison Margiela Fragrances
• MIU MIU EAU DE. PARFUM – Coty, Inc.
• PEONY & BLUSH SUEDE – Jo Malone London
• TORY BURCH EAU DE PARFUM –The Estée Lauder Companies
• VODKA ON THE ROCKS – By Kilian
Packaging of the Year
Women’s
• CAROLINA HERRERA GOOD GIRL – PUIG
• GABRIELLE CHANEL – CHANEL
• JASON WU EAU DE PARFUM – Parlux, LTD
• KENZO WORLD INTENSE – KENZO Parfums
• LES PARFUMS LOUIS VUITTON – Louis Vuitton
• TIFFANY & CO. EAU DE PARFUM – Coty, Inc.
• TWILLY D’HERMÈS – Hermès Parfums
• VICTORIA’S SECRET LOVE – Victoria’s Secret
• WOMAN BY RALPH LAUREN – Ralph Lauren Fragrances
• WOMAN IN GOLD – By Kilian
Men’s
• COACH FOR MEN – Interparfums
• GOLD KNIGHT – By Kilian
• GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE POUR HOMME – Coty, Inc.
• JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN PURE – Revlon
• ORIGINAL PENGUIN ICONIC BLEND – Falic Fashion Group
• PERRY ELLIS FOR MEN – Falic Fashion Group
• PRADA LUNA ROSSA CARBON – PUIG
• SALVATORE FERRAGAMO UOMO CASUAL LIFE – Shiseido Fragrances
• Y BY YSL – YSL Beauté
Home Collection of the Year
• CIRE TRUDONLES BELLES MATIÈRES MADURAÏ, REGGIO, TADINE– Cire Trudon
• COMMODITY HOME and BODY – Commodity
• DIPTYQUE 34 BOULEVARD SAINT GERMAIN – diptyque Paris
• MAISON MARGIELA REPLICA CANDLES – Maison Margiela Fragrances
• MOONLIGHT IN HEAVEN SCENTED CANDLE & SOAP – By Kilian
• SUGAR COOKIE COLLECTION – NEST Fragrances
• TOCCA VOYAGE HOME FRAGRANCE COLLECTION – Tocca
Bath & Body Collection of the Year
• AROMATHERAPY COLLECTION FROM BATH & BODY WORKS – Bath & Body Works
• BYREDO ROSE HAND CARE COLLECTION – Byredo
• CLÉMENTINE CALIFORNIA TREATMENT LINE – Atelier Cologne
• DIPTYQUE DO SON FRAGRANCE GESTURES – diptyque Paris
• ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA BATH AND BODY LINE – Revlon
• JOMALONE LONDON EXFOLIATING SHOWER GEL – Jo Malone London
• MAISON MARGIELA REPLICA BEACH WALK BATH LINE – Maison Margiela Fragrances
• VICTORIA’S SECRET ANGEL GLAM COLLECTION – Victoria’s Secret
Home Holiday/Seasonal Fragrance Product of the Year
• LES CONSTELL¬ATIONS – diptyque Paris
• GREEN ALMOND & REDCURRANT CANDLE – Jo Malone London
• HOLIDAY LIQUIDLESS DIFFUSERS – NEST Fragrances
• HOLIDAY PAJAMAS –philosophy – Coty, Inc.

Indie Fragrance of the Year
• ARTIST – Phuong Dang
• EAU D’INITIE – Exemplaire
• EL COSMICO – D.S. & Durga
• LOS HUMOS SAGRADOS – Fueguia 1833
• MAISON TRUDON PARFUM IN BRUMA
• MAISON TRUDON PARFUM IN II (DEUX)
• MAISON TRUDON PARFUM IN MORTEL
• OUD DU JOUR – Amouroud
• PELARGONIUM – AEDES DE VENUSTAS
• POTENTIA AMBER GOD – House of Potentia
• THAYS – Fueguia 1833

Social Media Campaign of the Year
• GUCCI BLOOM – Coty, Inc.
• KATY PERRY’S INDI – Coty, Inc.
• KKW CRYSTAL GARDENIA – KKW Fragrance
• MISS DIOR EAU DE PARFUM – Parfums Christian Dior
• TOM FORD FABULOUS – Tom Ford Beauty
• Y, YSL– YSL Beauté
360-Degree Marketing Campaign of the Year
• CAROLINA HERRERA GOOD GIRL – PUIG
• GUCCI BLOOM – Coty, Inc.
• EMPORIO ARMANI – Giorgio Armani
• MISS DIOR EAU DE PARFUM – Parfums Christian Dior
• VICTORIA’S SECRET LOVE – Victoria’s Secret
Media Campaign of the Year
Women’s
• CAROLINA HERRERA GOOD GIRL – PUIG
• GABRIELLE CHANEL – CHANEL
• GUCCI BLOOM – Coty, Inc.
• MISS DIOR EAU DE PARFUM – Parfums Christian Dior
• TWILLY D’HERMÈS – Hermès Parfums
• VICTORIA’S SECRET LOVE – Victoria’s Secret
Men’s
• ARMANI CODE COLONIA – Giorgio Armani
• ETERNITY CALVIN KLEIN – Coty, Inc.
• PERRY ELLIS FOR MEN – Falic Fashion Group
Consumer Choice Awards Finalists
Fragrance Hall of Fame
• CUCUMBER – Bath & Body Works
• CURVE FOR MEN – Revlon
• PHILOSOPHY AMAZING GRACE – philosop¬hy–Coty, Inc.
• TRÉSOR – Lancôme
Fragrance Vlog of the Year
• 5 REASONS TO WEAR FRAGRANCES – Jeremy Fragrance
• 10 FRAGRANCES YOU NEED IN YOUR COLLECTION WHEN STARTING OUT | MEN’S DESIGNER – Sebastian Jara
• HOW TO BE MORE ATTRACTIVE | 4 LIFE HACKS THAT WORK! – Edward Zo
• TOP 12 FORMAL OCCASION FRAGRANCES WITH REDOLESSENCE – Carlos J Powell and Steven Gavrielatos
Women’s
• AT THE BEACH – Bath & Body Works
• CAROLINA HERRERA GOOD GIRL – PUIG
• KATY PERRY’S INDI – Coty, Inc.
• KKW CRYSTAL GARDENIA – KKW FRAGRANCES
• LA VIE EST BELLE L’ECLAT – Lancôme
• VICTORIA’S SECRET LOVE – Victoria’s Secret
Men’s
• COACH FOR MEN – Interparfums
• HUGO BOSS, BOSS BOTTLED TONIC – Coty, Inc.
• PRADA LUNA ROSSA CARBON – PUIG

Congratulations and good luck to all the top ten finalists, in all categories!

The Plum Girl

Elena Cvjetkovic, Editor-in-Chief

Source: The Fragrance Foundation, Cafleurlebon, Fragrantica

„Born from a passion for French Haute Parfumerie, Atelier des Ors presents a capsule collection of exquisite fragrances. Dedicated to using only the most precious essences and exclusive raw materials, each eau de parfum presented by this unique boutique brand is an imaginative interpretation of traditional perfumery. Inspired also by the art of gold gilding, each bottle features a breathtaking design glittering with a burst of gold.“

Atelier des Ors is a French niche house, present since 2015. with a debut of five eau de parfums, adding later on two more, six of which I proudly present to you.

Atelier des Ors founder is Jean-Philippe Clermont who is also the artistic director for the brand. The „Nose“ behind the perfumes is Marie Salamagne. These fine perfumes come in glass bottles cut in an Art Deco design and filled with 24k gold flakes.

Ladies and gentlemen, here they are, as presented on my Instagram account, short, emotional reviews as follows:


Day 1: Rose Omeyyade

Just as a lush rose in full bloom needs to breathe in the fresh air, this rose needs your skin. As I sprayed it on a paper strip, pink pepper was present at first whiff, smudged over raspberry in traces. Then rose arose and swooned me away!

Immediately, impatiently, I offered it my skin. On a cold winter day, it made me daydream about a very specific place I’ve traveled to, feeling the soft blow of the Levant wind in my hair and golden rays of sunshine touching my face. (the Levant is specific for the Mediterranean, once you’ve felt it blow, you will know exactly what I’m talking about…

Usually gentle and damp, the Levant frequently brings clouds and rain, you can literally smell the rain coming). Destination: Port of Haifa, Israel…

Gold and a desert rose (I managed to find the one I dug up in desert), this is my visual presentation of Rose Omeyyade!

This rose is plump, ripe, ambered, dusky and sprinkled with caramel thick brown sugar. I would say quite unisex too, it has that darkish woody-oudy touch, sensual sugar&spice/I smell so nice vibe in the drydown.

I definitely suggest that you try it on your skin and let it play its music, please don’t rush this perfume!

Day 2: Iris Fauve

Not the iris you might expect, Aphrodite-like, sensual soft and curvy Iris…
This fine perfume opens with fluffy flowers with a gentle touch of warm spices. I feel Iris but it stirs and sways and mingles ever so gently. It is also much darker, muskier and more complex then I expected it to be. There’s plenty of woodiness and it’s just resinous enough as not to become overly sweet. Like I’m floating on a soft cloud, puffy cotton cloud!

If you are not usually iris-attracted, I suggest you try the Iris Fauve by Atelier des Ors. On your skin, of course. This is not an overly complicated perfume but it is finely blended and quite elegant. And yes, it is definitely unisex!

Did you know that Iris is the national flower of Croatia? On the island of Brac I enjoy watching the wild Irises bloom in May…

Day 3: Cuir Sacre

Destination: Andalusia. I managed to find my souvenir from Sevilla: castanets, palillos, preparing to give my full attention to this perfume.

I tested it on my skin. Green at the first whiff, resembling oleander leaves, dry and sharp, very herbal. I let it breathe for fifteen minutes and soon enough warmth moves in, a creamy vetiver takes over. This is not a Russian leather perfume by no means if we are talking leather – this is suede, well dried and carefully crafted, like a pair of soft cream-colored, goatskin suede gloves I had. It shifts subtly, moves in shadows. Half an hour later, I feel vetiver being touched by smoke, like incense burning somewhere far away from me and the wind carried the traces of incense smoke closer to me. It feels even quite woody, not forest-like, but rather like pieces of shaved wood scattered over the floor you are walking on. Other spices emerge too, not overly prominent, appearing and disappearing into this soft suede envelope. The vetiver I feel is warm, like sunshine on my skin on a late May afternoon… Did I just feel cardamom dance in? Or is it tonka? Or both? Hmmm…Interesting.

This is a close to skin perfume, elegant and not flashy – regarding the projection. Unisex, definitely, I will wear it for a business meeting tomorrow.

I think I will enjoy it most sometime later in May, after sundown, sitting somewhere outside… I don’t know why but I just thought that I’d probably be drinking a glass of dry white wine to go along with it.

Day 4: Lune Feline

Moon inspired, they say…If so, this Moon is completely illuminated by Sun, taking on different shades of red, orange or gold, like the Moon we see during a total lunar eclipse: it opens with a great wave of spices, then splashes of vanilla, cinnamon and cardamon sail in.

Dark, dry woods are in the background of this spicy gourmand fragrance. I don’t know why, but the painting “Red Vineyard at Arles” by Van Gogh is what I visualized. Destination: Amsterdam!

Its breath is warm and furry, like the breath of a large cat resting at sundown…I feel vanilla and amber from start to finish and yes! Just a hint of smoke is present…Three sprays and it remained very close to my skin for hours, tempting me to bury my nose in my wrist every now and then, just to feel that hugging, the golden aura of seductive warmth. Something to wear during Winter definitely!

Day 5: Aube Rubis

Like the dawn of a new summer day, it opens with rays of the light green, fizzy smell of grapefruit, cool and fresh. Then pink and orange colors paint the sky as it gets warmer and I feel smooth patchouli rising, iris and violets adding a refined, luxurious touch.

Light of a new day spreads across horizon, calmly bringing a very gentle touch of saffron. There’s just enough woodiness present to remind you of this note in all Atelier des Ors perfumes. An intriguing dance of sage and vetiver is what catches my attention, sage and vetiver and sporadic puffs of patchouli!

The dry down is a bit quieter, softer although what surprises me is that even after a couple of hours occasional whiffs of grapefruit emerged again, unexpected but very welcome in their outfit made of fruit and berries. An intriguing fragrance, writing its own story on your skin…It reminded me of September mornings in California…

Day 6: Larmes du Desert

Intentionally left to be the last to sample, postponed for days. Expectations were high, I admit. If you know me by now, you also know that I am a desert lover, traveled to many and plan to visit many more. This is why I was looking forward to it. I was a bit selfish, I admit. One day was not enough: I enjoyed it for a couple of days before sharing this.

Larmes du Desert. Tears of the desert…is this what it sounds like when myrrh trees cry? If a desert, then this desert is not scorching, hostile and dusty environment we usually associate with deserts. When I took in deeper breaths, it felt so familiar, like a deja vue. As I recalled all the deserts I’ve been to, a memory surfaced. The perfume took me back down the memory lane, images resurfacing, vivid and colorful. Gold, myrrh and frankincense! Gifts of the Three Kings.

The exact spot? After taking a quite long bus ride on a dusty desert road inside Sinai, a fortification appears upon the hill: the Saint Catharine’s Monastery, Mount of Sinai looking at adjacent Jebal Musa (Mount Moses). I remember it well. I feel resinous notes, a touch of olibanum, dark and seductive amber shot with a whiff of cinnamon. In the Monestery’s shades, a mix of dark sweetness, dry but layered upon forest woods, cedar toned. Sparkles of greenery, a trace of smoke: I remember looking at the „burning bush“ – a bramble (Rubus Sanctus), covering one wall with its lush greenery. The bush that was on fire but not consumed by flames…Rare and scattered Joshua trees can be seen in the distance.

Embracing softness of frankincense rises, dragging me deeper down into clouds of earthy balsamic and spicy tones, soothing as I take off my flip-flops and walk upon this ground with bare feet (anyone entering the chapel is required to remove their shoes…), feeling a warm breeze coming from the mountain and scattered rays of sunshine touching the skin on my arms and feet, adding it a very subtle golden glow…my skin breathes patchouly.

This is why it took me days to get over it, I cherished this memory. There are perfumes that make me cry, and Larmes du Desert is one of them.

As for this photo, I found my silver Hamsa hand pendant: it can be traced back to the people of Phoenicia, some say that it was present even before, in ancient Egypt. An ancient symbol of protection, bringing happiness…so I share it with you, together with my impression of this wonderful perfume!

Thank you, Atelier des Ors!

P.S. See you in Milan next month – Esxence is a place to be! Please email me for appointments as my schedule is quite busy there 🌹

The Plum Girl
Photos: The Plum Girl Archives, Atelier des Ors
Disclaimer