If your visit to Belgrade starts at the main bus station as I did, just remember that it’s not a great place to start your olfactory journey…it is rarely anywhere recommendable, so just endure.
The whole city is a busy construction site. We could hardly find a taxi driver willing to wrestle cracked and demolished Slavija Square on the way to our apartment but that’s where famous Serbian hospitality kicks in.
We could have walked but my high heels said no, no…
Belgrade On the Water, on the banks of river Sava, a bit farther away, is a huge project as well and it seemed to me that the scent of dust and fresh asphalt lingers in the air above the city.
Once finished, I bet Slavija will be a point of pride. Fountains and lights and all that jazz.
The new Museum of Contemporary Art just had its grand opening night when I arrived and it is very impressive.
One construction site less, yey!
Yes, the city is worn and rugged with history but it is certainly getting a facelift. Note: just be patient. Eventually, everything will work out, no need to get all worked up, and again: yes, the people here are very helpful.
As you walk down the main street and shopping strip – Knjaza Milosa in the center, many bistros will catch your eye. Nose as well.
Various barbecue scents vibrate as you stroll along this wide street. I was really impressed with some chosen restaurants we visited. The prices are affordable, the food is great and the waiters were really nice.
When you walk that straight line, all the way from Slavija to Kalemegdan, the greenery you finally reach will refresh your nose.
As I climbed up on the fortress side, I faced the confluence of the Danube and Sava river! The great Danube gave an undertone of moisture, misty river smell which rolled in as Sun was setting.
Belgrade is very walkable and very close to Kalemegdan is King Peter’s Street, very fashionable with a brand-new shopping center not far away from its crossing with Knjaza Milosa.
A few steps further were my points of interest: the first niche perfumery in Belgrade – Metropoliten. I walked in thirsty for fine scents. Enter a curious nose!
That’s where my heart was at peace as soon as I entered: familiar scents, bottles, and candles carefully arranged in a quiet and chick interior. With a swing!
The Metropoliten perfumery’s offer of the month was Clive Christian.
Kurkdjian’s Baccarat Rouge 540 also holds its special place.
Carner Barcelona is available as well as Roja, Eight and Bob, Killian, Penthaglion’s, Byredo, Nasomatto, Zenology, Profumum Roma, L’Artisan Perfumeur, Clive Trudon candles, and fine cosmetics…
When in Belgrade, you need not look any further. The prices are also very reasonable so it just might be worth your while to shop here. Very mainstream niche, I hope they will tend to surprise a little bit in the future.
After a long day, we planned a dinner at the famous restaurant “Reka” (make your reservation on time, it’s quite crowded on Saturday evenings) and headed towards the riverbank in Zemun.
There, at the banks of the Danube, are the best place to party in Belgrade. You will see many floating clubs (barges) and Belgrade is a quite famous party town, I guess it ranks just like Ibiza!
Also, what happens in “Kafana” stays there: it is a stress-free, relax zone and you can dance (and eat, over and over and again!) until the morning.
I was wearing Ramon Montale Black Musk that night and it lasted throughout the night…in the city that never sleeps.
The Plum Girl
Photos: The Plum Girl