During the past 10 weeks I had enough time to go through my perfume bottles and samples, making an inventory of a kind. I ended up playing like a little kid with perfume and desert sand, and just sniffing certain fragrances made me close my eyes: I traveled in time and space to deserts I long for, or the ones I’ve always dreamt about.
I wanted to share them with you, and maybe inspire you to do the same, so here are the 5 desert-themed fragrances I wore the most this spring! I’m not (never) saying that these are the TOP5 ever or anything like that – you’ll make your own choices. I’ll try to explain why I singled out these five, and what makes them special.
What if an old palm tree in an oasis somewhere far away in a desert could tell you about its memories? Fragrant memories of all events that it witnessed? Date palm trees are silent observers of life unfolding in their shade for ages. It would be unfair to describe them with only one note, the one trying to recall palm leaves, usually an accord painting a summer-tropical-relaxed vibe, as we have known it up to now. What about its flower? Trunk? Fruit? Surroundings? The whole experience? A fragrant ode to a palm tree?
Here it is, I present to you a completely new line of perfumes with quite an interesting story behind it! Was it simple to create a line of fragrances devoted to date palm trees? Quite controversial, I would say, considering that the richness of the Arabic language holds many names for varieties of date trees, stages of development and fruit types. Only one name for the delicate blooming of a palm tree: FO’AH. I wish I could smell this myself! This is what FO’AH’s name means and this is what they did: they arranged a meeting of the olfactory heritage of the Middle East and hillsides of Grasse – presented with an exclusive creation, never before used in perfumery. One more thing: I learned that creators were given open hands and a quite open budget as well in order to create something completely new.
Founders Ms. Émilie Dewell from France, and Mr. Abdulla Al Masaood from UAE worked for many months alongside Master Perfumer Olivier Pescheux (together with Mr. Michel Girard of Givaudan) until he was able to create this distinctive olfactory signature. The creators placed the date palm’s fronds, husk, and tiny flowers under a bell jar to analyze its natural fragrance in the desert air, then recreated the scent at laboratories in France…and thus was a new creation born. This exclusive note of the date palm tree is in the heart of all these excellent (unisex) perfumes!
It’s no secret that I love deserts, so I was really curious about this whole concept: my first encounter with FO’AH – Perfumes With a Soul happened at Esxence Milan earlier this year and I have had time since then to test them and wear them thoroughly. In my opinion, FO’AH is one of the best discoveries I made at Esxence this year!
Deserts. Traveled to many, some are still on my bucket list. When I say this, people often ask me why, and as it is when you are deeply in love, it’s hard to find adequate words. Somehow I feel the deepest connection to Nature at open sea or in the deep desert: I don’t feel alone there…under starry night skies or burning noon sun. Yes, a desert might look merciless at first sight, but it is not ever as empty as it might seem.
Just looking at a desert panorama calms all the interior noise: the wide-open space shuts down unimportant chatter, your eyes can rest and you can feel your heart, your inner peace…and yes, for me it’s a place where heaven and earth meet. And you learn to respect the desert as much as you should respect sea or any other force of Nature: as romantic as it may sometimes be, it surely has its moods. Desert is a treacherous mistress. It deserves respect. I have learned to respect palm trees as much as I respect fig trees on my island: trees of life. This is why meeting FO’AH for the first time made me so curious: their heart note is something completely new.
I also must say that that the presentation is meticulous and well thought about: every element echoes date palm trees. The glass facettes represent the trunk of a tree, the amber color reflects ripe dates, the rose gold shade is the color of sand. The cap is magnetic and bottles refillable and the white box is a pearly white monolith magnetic coffret, gracefully opening to reveal heavy glass bottle, beautiful and sophisticated:
I took the samples with me, took my time. As you might have noticed, I do tend to be a bit selfish with perfumes I fall in love with, listening carefully to their fragrant melody, letting myself feel them on all levels.
Here is my experience of three new FO’AH perfumes, released in 2018. Each fragrance carries a number. The significance of numbers is kept a secret, but they connect to intimate stories of one of the founders:
„What makes the desert beautiful is that somewhere it hides a well.“
-Antoine de Saint-Exupery
No. 02 – DAWN OF A NEW DAY: GREEN & CRISP
An oasis in deserts hides wells. The first thing you notice when approaching an oasis are tall palm trees, your eyes are hungry for the color of green, your skin thirsty for moisture they promise. After all the oranges and browns of a desert, green soothes your eyes and soul. As you move closer to high trees, guardians of an oasis, your skin can feel any and smallest whiff of moisture. Dawns feel green and crisp with cool early morning hours, brisk and sharp, frail in their beauty, so promising while still untouched by piercing rays of sunshine. Yet you know that it won’t be long until the sun rises again, slowly chasing freshness away. The warmth of a new day will always slowly creep in, temperature rising in hot waves will soon erase all traces of morning dew and the air in an oasis will become earthier. Instead of green palm tree leaves, you will start noticing darker tones of tree trunks, dry branches or heart of the palm tree, the bulge at its top. Scents will become warmer, more comforting, muskier.
FO’AH No 02 reflects just that feeling of first-morning dew in an oasis: the opening is crisp green, invigorating, awakening. It stirs you up and energizes with citrusy Bergamot and Lemon notes. This first impression of lemony freshness is nicely underlined by an exquisitely added juniper, giving it vibrancy. This moment of freshness lasts, although it is very refined and suave. If you are hungry for this kind of sparkle in a perfume, I am certain that you will enjoy it immensely.
Yet, things aren’t that simple: juniper note is behaving like a silver platter on which sliced lemon is served, but that is just a topping. Sparkling freshness is replaced by deeper tones, adding a vegetal feeling to it, rounding it up in a more serene sensation. Soon you will notice the richness of cedar, like veils of thick silk surrounding almost tart taste of the palm at its heart, revealing it deliberately slowly.
This multifaceted perfume then transforms into a chorus of musky, dry and warm incenses in contrast to the vivid top notes. It is complex, it is linear, it is multifaceted and opulent. Very refined, with great projection and longevity on my skin (6-7 hours), given that I wore it in hot Summer days with temperatures rising above 30C.
Like all the perfumes in this line, this is a beautifully crafted perfume, unfolding with so much grace in time. I enjoyed the contrast between sparkling headnotes and silky, smooth skin sensation of base notes, adding it a more masculine finish. It is the most exact reminder of early mornings in Summer, dawn, and daybreak in soft and sfumato tones, bursts of freshness rising from evaporating morning dew on the grass, plants and trees. Very creative, a bit retro in a most positive way. I could wear it as SOTD during warm Spring and Summer days, on gloomy and rainy Monday office day or as a Winter outdoor fragrance.
Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon from Sicily, Juniper Heart Notes: Cedar from Georgia, Palm Note Bottom Notes: Incense, Musks
„You should not see the desert simply as some faraway place of little rain. There are many forms of thirst.“
– William Langewiesche
No. 11 – SALIN & DELICATE: SEA CRISTALS CAPTURED AT THE TIP OF THE PALM
Quite an unusual scent, yet somehow strangely familiar…
There are many palm trees on the island of Brac (located in the Adriatic Sea) where I own a summer cottage: usually planted years ago along main roads in a village or town center, near the sea. Just as in any Mediterranean island or city coast. In the afternoon, before sunset, you can feel refreshing wind breezing in (Maestral, slightly humming wind blowing from NW and from the sea to the land, signaling nice weather) and branches of palm trees murmur softly as this wind carries tiny drops of seawater upon them. An image of a late afternoon during Summer holidays, just before sunset: palm trees, sea breeze, salty air, sunkissed hair…and a perfume bottle underneath a palm tree:
Maestral wind kind of feeling flooded me after a first spray, I could almost feel the tingling sensation of seawater drying on my forearms and legs after taking a long swim.
The initial notes make their sensational appearance in the opening: yes, here come the bright citruses, but these are spiced up with a peppery sensation and followed by just a hit of lush yellow pear, a slight fruity note in this accord. This pear is soft, juicy and just a bit bitter. As it wears, I feel a slight touch of green florals drifting across the fragrance, clean and bright. This Lily-of-the-valley is very delicate and light, somehow supporting saltiness of this composition, which I found rather strange.
That citrusy-spicy-fruity-salty feeling slowly becomes tainted with warmer and dryer tones that wear all the way through the dry down. My beloved amber note provides a fine warm, golden glowing, very cozy feeling to it.
When you absorb this fragrance as a whole, you will notice that this time the palm tree is given a soft, velvety feel, although the spicy citruses&pears introduction is quite interesting for itself, a pure fantasy accord leading to voluptuous abstract composition. The velvety dry down is simultaneously seductive, caressing and intriguing and this is exactly why it reminded me of peaceful sundown somewhere in a shade of a palm tree on a beach walk. Very classy and anytime-wear fragrance, lasting in warm weather and heartwarming in colder days to come. Never too heavy, never too loud, exquisitely composed and very refined. I love it!
Top Notes: Citrus, Pepper, Pear Heart Notes: Lily of the Valley, Palm Note Bottom Notes: Dry Amber, Musks
„There is nothing more difficult for a truly creative painter than to paint a rose, because before he can do so he has first to forget all the roses that were ever painted.“
– Henry Matisse
No. 08 – FLORAL AND VOLUPTUOUS: WHEN ROSE CENTIFOLIA MEETS THE HEART OF THE DATE PALM TREE
Last, but not least, No. 08. Here comes yet another „rose“/ „oriental rose“, you might think.
Now, I really do think that the above-quoted saying by Matisse is so true in the world of perfumes as well: you really should forget all the roses based fragrances that you have ever smelled when sniffing a new one. This is difficult sometimes, but I really tend to regard each niche/artisan/indie perfume as a singular, unique, artistic expression. Some are better, some are worse, some resemble certain classics too much, some are just too plain and obvious. The beauty of the fragrant painting besides the impression, lies in the whole composition and artistic expression, too. It helps that rose is one of the most versatile ingredients in the perfumery and there are so many beautiful ways of using it!
Just as we have seen this years celebrations dedicated to harvesting of the Rose de Mai and just as Fete du Jasmin is about to take place in Grasse, I present to you FO’AH No.08: a sublimely rich and dew-drenched roses that bloom alongside fields of jasmine, breathing together with the opulent dark brown trunk of a palm tree, wrapped in oriental layers of sandalwood and patchouli at the dry down.
The first spray is pine sharp and green, with a fresh start. Jasmine is acting as a red carpet spread out to meet and greet the appearance of the Rose, sensual, turning it into a deeper, more penetrating fragrance.You have to wait patiently until it unfolds and unveils itself in all its might and beauty! Queen of the Day and Queen of the Night walk hand in hand, confident, strong, bewitching seductresses…
If No. 02 is dawn and No. 11 dusk for me, No. 08 is nightfall, clear night sky with full moon and myriad of stars visible. This is when you can feel night wind rushing through branches of tall, pine trees, Earth breathing accumulated warmth, the time of the day when crickets cease to sing and silvery moonlight softens shades and contrasts.
A very chiaroscuro composition, contrasting light and dark, pine freshness and Centifolia abundance, giving it an almost three-dimensional feeling with a touch of sandalwood. This is where I felt the palm note becoming earthy, acting as underlying principle, framing the whole rhapsody with a firm hand. An intense feeling but quite contemporary: a very refined, rich and abundant unisex rose.The rose is not fruity nor sparkly, it is a fine Centifolia, smelling deep, rosy-spicy, with light honey-like touch, opulent and moist.
It feels rich, sensual in the dry down with Tonka bean acting like a chameleon here: rounding up the whole composition, accentuating the oriental aspect of this perfume, perfectly blending with Patchouly and changing the whole composition’s balance towards a more masculine side. The overall impression is strong, intense and rich. It might be challenging in days of very intense heat with this powerful side, but I am absolutely smitten with this elegant approach of blending classic aspects of the Arab perfumery and balancing them finely with all the might of French tradition. Classic.
Top Notes: Jasmin, Siberian Pine. Heart Notes: Absolut May Rose, Sandal Wood, Palm Note Bottom Notes: Oak Moss, Patchouli, Tonka Bean
This is not all! I can hardly wait to tell you all about yet another new FO’AH perfume in this line (my favorite!), but I have been asked nicely to keep quiet until November release. No 14:
I only know that this is just the beginning of a wonderful friendship…and I am enjoying every step of it!
These fine perfumes are available in 75ml (185 EUR) and 125ml bottles (250 EUR), for all details about points of sale feel free to visit FO’AH website.
Elena Cvjetkovic, The Plum Girl Blog Photos: The Plum Girl, FO’AH Press Materials, Dreamstime, Splash Samples were kindly provided by FO’AH – Opinions of my own. Disclaimer
Sheiduna. Sheitan’s bride? A she-dune? Seduction? Is that how they named you, I asked the perfume. Why?
It is all of this and more, yet with utmost elegance.
Here it was, right under my nose, the new perfume Sheiduna by Puredistance – Master Perfumes. An intriguing one, packed in an elegant bottle, smooth and heavy in my hand, with wow-baam! perfume percentage – where will it take me, I wondered. The niche house of Puredistance always seemed promising to me (feel free to click and learn more).
Press materials provided by Puredistance describe this novelty (created by CécileZarokian, ISIPCA graduate, she was trained for four years in Robertet, at first in Grasse, then in Paris. She was still a trainee when she created her first fragrance, Amouage Epic Woman. The name is invented by Jan Ewoud Vos, Puredistance founder), like this:
“SHEIDUNA is a rich and intense Perfume inspired by the panoramic views and feel of golden sand dunes in the desert during sunset – soft, female curves changing from deep gold to warm, orangey-red – embodying a promise of sensual comfort and silent seduction. Wearing SHEIDUNA, one waft’s sensuality and intense color waves of Persian rugs touch the senses. The perfect marriage between Sensuality and Style.
Ingredients: lemon, tangerine, blackcurrant, aldehydes, Bulgarian rose essence, geranium, clove, vetyver, patchouly, amber woody, incense, benzoin, myrrh, tonka bean, vanilla pods, and musks.”
There you are, ingredients and all: yet, beware. This perfume doesn’t have the classical pyramid structure, nor will you be able to sum it up at once. You might love it or hate it, or hate it at first and then realize a couple of hours later that you want it as your signature perfume. It’s tricky, it’s strong and it’s pricey.
You’ve got to meet her in silence. She might seem orientally mystic but cold and distant, yet you can sense there is so much more under that self-contained first impression. When I took the second breath images and scents swirled around my head, extracting bits and pieces connected to my olfactory memories…desert! I wondered which one was it…was it Israel? No. Sahara? Not this time, but close enough. Suddenly I was again in the dusty bus, on my way to the Valley of Kings, taking a right turn, passing the path made of ancient stones and climbing the stairs of the magnificent temple of Hatshepsut.
My first impression of Sheiduna was oops, there we go powerful oriental again. Nah. But then came tangerines (I must have summoned them in the previous post “Tangerine Trees and Marmelade Skies) and lemon, gently unveiling Bulgarian rose. Subtle, seductive rose. It lasts and it lasts, leaving me with soft amber, near skin seductive fragrance. Soft as desert sands in the late afternoon, where all the scents of this world are gone and you can actually smell the sunbathed sand, the rocks, the sky, the Sun, your own skin and wind. I don’t know why but I thought this is how she might have smelled, the woman who became the King.
The story about Hatshepsut is fascinating. What is also fascinating is that the ancient Egyptians were adept at chemistry, their formulas are the basis for the production of modern perfumes and cosmetics. Experts from L’Oreal and the Center for Research of the Museums of France tested materials from ancient perfume bottles and jars kept in Louvre: the percentages of ingredients used are roughly the same used in eye makeup today. And perfumes? They were masters of the art.
Born in the 15th century BC, Hatshepsut, daughter of Tuthmose I and Aahmes, was the favorite of their three children. When her two brothers died, she was in a unique position to gain the throne upon the death of her father. To have a female pharaoh was unprecedented, and probably most definitely unheard of as well. She did not become a queen. She was crowned the King of all Egypt, pharaoh, wore male clothes and a beard and accomplished what no woman had before her. She ruled the most powerful, advanced civilization in the world for twenty years. Bringing peace and prosperity, trading with, among other things – myrrh…which you can find in this perfume. When she died, her successors tried to eradicate every trace of her, including the most sacred form of her very presence on this world and the one to come – her name carved into stones of temples, amid names of other pharaohs. Her temple stands up to this day, she looks upon you as you enter it, and she lives. Her name is not forgotten.
I can imagine her watching down those stairs of Djeser-Djeseru, wearing her perfume scented robes, waiting for the sun to set behind the orange-colored horizon. Eager to retreat to her chambers, to be – just a woman. A seductive, noble and classy queen, sophisticated and elegant – hot and cold, sensual and down to earth – you might love her or hate her but she rules her world. Thanks, Sheiduna. Where will it take you?
The Plum Girl
Photo: The Plum Girl Testing Location: Parfumerija Lana Disclaimer