2019 was marked by numerous releases of new fragrances, some quote that over 3000 new perfumes were launched. Waves of niche fragrances rolling in the market could be predicted as well: early Spring, late Spring/early Summer, late Autumn. Some even in late December! Yet, in all that turmoil, ever since mid-October last year – I kept thinking about Gold by Puredistance.
Actually, it’s gentle Fluidity Gold Edition and Gentle fluidity Silver Edition:
Two new fragrances by Maison Francis Kurkdijan with a well explained and executed inspiration and context:
„Same notes, two identities.
Working the ingredient to express its full potential and meeting the challenge of composing two different Eaux de parfum with the same notes: juniper berries, nutmeg, coriander, musks, ambery woods, and vanilla. The Gentle Fluidity Duo was born of the perfumer’s imagination to offer two distinct olfactory silhouettes, for her or for him.“
Actually (again), it’s more than those ingredients listed above, it always is…
The point is in focusing on six key ingredients among 49 used. Playing with them, dosing, providing specific effects, being a perfumer. A perfumer that won Prix Coty in 2001. (at age 26) for his lifetime achievement. Let’s not forget that, as well as the impressive list of his creations for various perfume companies, a long time before he co-founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian, and a long time before it became a part of LVMH.
Is this concept absolutely new? Not really. We’ve seen fragrances released in pairs before. We have also witnessed fragrances released one after another that use the same components but differ in the final effect.
What is new is that the whole concept of creative fluidity is rounded up perfectly, communicated clearly, smoothly executed, and presentation follows adequately. Let’s see how they smell:
Gentle fluidity / Silver
The accent is as follows, bold signifying that those accords are accentuated: Juniper Berries oil, Nutmeg oil, Coriander seeds oil, Musks, Ambery Woods, Vanilla Blend.
Silver opens with a cold and fresh note of Juniper Berry. I couldn’t help but imagine a Juniper berry stuck in an ice cube, floating around a glass filled with gin. Very enjoyable! I appreciated that cool, relaxed, uplifting vibe. Later on, it does become a bit warmer but nutmeg shows its cooler, dryer side. Never too loud, it moves in a quite an elegant way, gaining warmth but still staying composed all the way to the drydown – when it becomes silky-woody. When I sniffed my wrist the next morning, I could feel typical vanilla toned sweetness, colored with a musky hue. My favorite, if I have to choose one: if you like Aqua Universalis (like I do), you’ll find it appealing and comfortable to wear.
Gentle Fluidity / Gold
Accent changes its place: Juniper Berry oil, Nutmeg oil, Coriander Seeds oil, Musks, Ambery Woods, Vanilla Blend.
There, you can almost feel the difference, even without sniffing! Same ingredients, yet it smells like a different perfume. On the first sniff, it’s all about Vanilla, golden-glowing, curvy Vanilla…Vanilla everywhere!
Gold is a well-chosen name for it. What is also interesting is that Nutmeg oil here shows its different facet, much warmer, leaning towards an oriental feeling: it only adds to this gold, warm, and smooth flow, becoming a bit powdery later on. I enjoyed that piece of olfactory music in the middle part of its performance, which does last for hours. The final drydown is almost identical to Silver: I do get that „caramels on my wrists“ feeling at the end. On my skin Gold definitely outlasted Silver, in projection and in longevity, if that’s what you are looking for.
Gentle Fluidity Duo will be widely accepted, I am certain of that. I am really enjoying that these fragrances are raising awareness of the fact that subtle changes, different proportions, thoughtful accentuation of few details – make all the difference…In perfumes, and in life…
Gold and Silver are available in Croatia: @ Martimex Niche Perfumery, Trg Bana Jelacica 11, or @ Maison Francis Kurkdjian website, 70 ml Eau de parfum – 150EUR/1125Kn.
The Plum Girl
Photos: The Plum Girl
Samples provided by Maison Francis Kurkdjian during the promotional event at Martimex Niche Zagreb, opinions of my own.