If your visit to Belgrade starts at the main bus station as I did, just remember that it’s not a great place to start your olfactory journey…it is rarely anywhere, so just endure.

The whole city is a busy construction site. We could hardly find a taxi driver willing to wrestle cracked and demolished Slavija Square on the way to our apartment but that’s where famous Serbian hospitality kicks in. We could have walked but my high heels said no, no…

Belgrade On the Water, on the banks of river Sava, a bit farther away, is a huge project as well and it seemed to me that the scent of dust and fresh asphalt lingers in the air above the city.

Once finished, I bet Slavija will be a point of pride. Fountains and lights and all that jazz.

The new Museum of Contemporary Art just had its grand opening night when I arrived and it is very impressive.

One construction site less, yey!

Yes, the city is worn and rugged with history but it is certainly getting a facelift. Note: just be patient. Eventually, everything will work out, no need to get all worked up and again: yes, the people here are very helpful.

As you walk down the main street and shopping strip – Knjaza Milosa in the center, many bistros will catch your eye. Nose as well. Various barbecue scents vibrate as you stroll along this wide street. I was really impressed with some chosen restaurants we visited. The prices are affordable, the food is great and the waiters were really nice.

When you walk that straight line, all the way from Slavija to Kalemegdan, the greenery you finally reach will refresh your nose.

As I climbed up on the fortress side, I faced the confluence of Danube and Sava river! The great Danube gave an undertone of moisture, misty river smell which rolled in as Sun was setting.

Belgrade is very walkable and very close to Kalemegdan is the King Peter’s Street, very fashionable with a brand-new shopping center not far away from its crossing with Knjaza Milosa. A few steps further was my point of interest: the first niche perfumery in Belgrade – Metropoliten. I walked in thirsty for fine scents. Enter a curious nose!

That’s where my heart was at peace as soon as I entered: familiar scents, bottles, and candles carefully arranged in a quite chick interior. With a swing!

The Metropoliten perfumery offer of the month is Clive Christian:

Kurkdjian’s Baccarat Rouge 540 also has its special place.
Carner Barcelona is available as well as Roja, Eight and Bob, KilianPenthaglion’s, Byredo, Nasomatto, Zenology, Profumum Roma, L’Artisan Perfumeur, Clive Trudon candles, and fine cosmetics…

When in Belgrade, you need not look any further. The prices are also very reasonable so it just might be worth your while to shop here. Very mainstream niche, I hope they will tend to surprise a little bit in the future.

After a long day, we planned a dinner at the famous restaurant “Reka” (make your reservation on time, it’s quite crowded on Saturday evenings) and headed towards the riverbank in Zemun.

There, at the banks of Danube, are the best place to party in Belgrade. You will see many floating clubs (barges) and Belgrade is a quite famous party town, I guess it ranks just as Ibiza! Also, what happens in “Kafana” stays there: it is a stress-free, relax zone and you can dance (and eat, over and over and again!) until the morning.

I was wearing Ramon Montale Black Musk that night and it lasted throughout the night…in the city that never sleeps.

The Plum Girl

Elena Cvjetkovic

Photos by The Plum Girl

Ljubljana, Laibach, Lubliana/Slovenia: during my recent, brief stay I simply had to walk over The Triple Bridge. It is a must see in Ljubljana, I just love the inner city! Advent decorations added a new dimension to the river Ljubljanica, people filling squares and cobble paved streets: what is different this year (they were proud to explain) is that culinary providers at the Advent fair are using environmentally friendly packaging instead of plastic!


Niche perfumes offer in Ljubljana practically didn’t exist for a quite long time. I guess nearby Austria or Italy covered the demand and some shops shyly introduced limited range of perfumes in the past years. My curious nose took me to Ikona, relatively new shopping destination:

Perfumery is located on the ground floor, exhibiting what Ikona has to offer:

Young lady that greeted me warmly was very helpful, although not quite into perfumes. As I noticed later on, this is not the only department she covered, so it seems that sales personnel is covering all the bases. The rest-and-enjoy corner is neat and comfy:

I didn’t find any novelties: the offer is basic, a very limited safe-play. You will find a selection of Amouage, Carthousia, Juliette Has a Gun (no Into The Void, though), Nasomatto basics and Comme des Garçons range (as photos show). Alas, they had just run out of Nasomatto completely, not a drop left in testers, not a single bottle available. No samples at all, nada, zip, zero. Ok, it was Sunday, just before closing time, maybe they had run out of everything. Maybe. I tried to contact them via mail prior to arrival but nobody bothered to answer.

Carthusia – I Profumi di Capri was nice to see, haven’t seen Carthusia since my visit to Italy. Classic: Numero Uno (for men) was released in 2007. and Via Camerelle (citrus centered, for women) in 2006. Carthusia is said to originate from a bouquet of wildflowers picked by a monk in 1380 on the Island of Capri. The current collection of Carthusia perfume is a revival of these ancient scents, rooted in the history of the island. With every stage carried out by hand, the limited production means being able to use the same methods as the Carthusian monks. A fine choice, without any doubt, but I personally consider these as more “summertime” perfumes.

Did some shopping and I must repeat that all the personnel is very nice&friendly, covering all three floors and different brands. We did receive a goodbye goodie: a bottle of Ikona water:

I really enjoy being in Ljubljana and will write an update next time I visit. I’ll be back! 😀

Update, September 2017: a very good range of niche, getting better and better! Wider choice, more newies, very good SA. When in Ljubljana, this is the place I will return to…

The Plum Girl

Photos: The Plum Girl