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Perfume Reviews

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Visiteur, a perfume brand founded in 2018 by Janne Rainer Vuorenmaa from Sweden, is now present with three fragrances: Cabaret Nocturne was the first one I reviewed, even before it officially launched. 

Janne did take his time, a perfectionist, working on each and every detail until he was ready. And guess what? He was ready amidst the worst lockdowns – in 2020!

Here’s my review of Cabaret Nocturne, a wonderful fragrance created by talented Cecile Zarokian. (First published in Cafleurebon, edited)

The more you listen to Fleur Japonais’s fragrant expression, the more it draws you in – it feels at moments very spiritual, like you’re watching a ritual in an ancient temple.

The incense is never overwhelming or dense, it feels so…light and clean. The almost transparent layers of light florals in Fleur Japonais are framing gently the image of a temple, gaining momentum and vibrating in soothing and comforting labdanum-ambery-glowing tones much later,  in the drydown.

This is the seventh perfume in the collection, and is fascinating again: Fleur Japonais is Maurice Roucel’s interpretation of Sakura for Shalini Parfum.

Silence the Sea is one of the most intriguing fragrances that I’ve ever come across.  Christophe Laudamiel, working together with the Strangelove NYC brand owner Elizabeth Gaynes and creative director Helena Christensen weaves a creation that features pure ambergris with an alluring effect, addictive and deeply primal.

This is not a marine-aquatic fragrance, and yet it speaks about oceans and seas in volumes!

The first fragrance I tried from the Strangelove  NYC line was Silence the Sea: I got lost and fell in love. Irreversibly.

I realized then that nomen est omen: yes, perfumes that the trio Gaynes-Laudamiel-Christensen offers ARE strange, and you might fall in love with all of them. It made perfect sense.

It so happened recently that I won a 15 ml Lost in Flowers bottle in an IG giveaway organized by Strangelove NYC, and this is my review!

The Black Knight by Francesca Bianchi greets you with the power of a fully equipped, light, and swift battle horse in a full gallop through a fresh and green field of vetiver: its muscles are moving in a tense way, hoofs picking up and throwing pieces of dry earth in the air behind it. 

And yet, there is hidden tenderness and fragility that makes him feel – so human.

My review of The Black Knight perfume was first published in Cafleurebon, and this is the version I edited in 2021.